Water and Power Associates Informing the Public about Critical Water and Energy Issues facing Los Angeles and California

Historical Notes

The northern sections of the city of Santa Monica once belonged to Rancho San Vicente y Santa Monica and Rancho Boca de Santa Monica. The Sepulveda family sold 38,409 acres of Rancho San Vicente y Santa Monica for $54,000 in 1872 to Colonel Robert S. Baker and his wife, Arcadia Bandini de Stearns Baker. Bandini was the daughter of Juan Bandini, a prominent and wealthy early Californian, and was the widow of Abel Stearns, once the richest man in Los Angeles. Baker also bought a half interest in Rancho Boca de Santa Monica. Nevada Senator John P. Jones bought a half interest in Baker's property in 1874.

To make the town marketable, Jones built a 16-mile rail line between the Santa Monica Bay waterfront and downtown Los Angeles, naming it the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad. It was only the second railroad built in Los Angeles; the first was the Los Angeles and San Pedro, which opened in 1869.

Historical Notes

In 1875, John P. Jones and Colonel Robert S. Baker subdivided part of their joint holdings and created the town of Santa Monica. The town site fronted on the ocean and was bounded on the northwest by Montana Avenue, on the southeast by Colorado Avenue and on the northeast by 26th Street. The avenues were all named after the states of the West, the streets being simply numbered. The first lots in Santa Monica were sold on July 15, 1875.

Historical Notes

The land was auctioned on July 15, 1875 by the San Francisco Office of the Santa Monica Land Company. The advantages of Santa Monica were emphasized, particularly the superiority of its harbor over that of San Pedro.

The lots sold for $500 and $750.  Within a few weeks after the town lot sale a change had come over the barren plain.  Houses and stores sprang up, a general store was opened and a newspaper started.

Historical Notes

The town continued to grow and, in November 1886, the electorate went to the polls and voted 97 to 71 to incorporate Santa Monica.

Historical Notes

The original naming convention for east-west avenues in Santa Monica, established when the townsite was laid out in 1875, used names of Western U.S. states and territories. In later years, many of these street names were changed.

For example:
In 1912, Oregon Street became part of Santa Monica Boulevard.
In 1913, Nevada Street adopted the name Wilshire Boulevard.
In 1924, Utah Street was renamed Broadway.
In 1902, Railroad Avenue was renamed Colorado Avenue.

Historical Notes

Cllick HERE to see more early views of 3rd Street (1910), which would later become the 3rd Street Promenade.

Click HERE to see more early views of the 3rd Street Promenade (1933+)

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad (LA&I) was a significant early railroad in Southern California, chartered in March 1874 and beginning operations on October 17, 1875. It ran a 16.67-mile steam-powered line between Santa Monica's Long Wharf and downtown Los Angeles. Initially ambitious, the LA&I aimed to reach San Bernardino and Independence, to serve the Cerro Gordo Silver Mines. Key figures in its establishment included former governor John G. Downey and banker F.P.F Temple. The railroad faced fierce competition from the Southern Pacific, engaging in the "Battle of the Pass" to secure a route through Cajon Pass. Despite completing its line and formally opening on December 1, 1875, the LA&I struggled to compete with Southern Pacific's extensive network and pricing strategies.

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad travelled from a wharf North of the current Santa Monica Pier in Santa Monica along a private right-of-way to 5th and San Pedro Street in downtown Los Angeles. The 16.67 miles of track between Los Angeles and Santa Monica were built by John P. Jones without government subsidies or land grants, all in a little over ten months - primarily using 67 Chinese laborers imported for the task. Right-of-way between Los Angeles and Santa Monica was given by local ranchers who were anxious to have access to a railroad.

Click HERE to see more on the Los Angeles & Indempendent Railroad Depot in downtown Los Angeles.

Historical Notes

The line opened October 17, 1875, with two trains a day running between Santa Monica and Los Angeles; the fare was fixed at $1.00 per trip, freight at $1.00 per ton.

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad helped make Santa Monica palatable to real estate speculators and prospective residents, but Jones, who was politically well-connected as a U.S. senator from Nevada, had grander plans for the railroad. Intending to connect the line with the town of Independence in the Owens Valley, and from there to a silver mine he owned in the Panamint Mountains, Jones optimistically included "Independence" in his railroad's name. Jones, however, encountered financial problems stemming from his mines drying out. He reluctantly sold the Los Angeles and Independence to Collis P. Huntington's Southern Pacific Railroad on July 1, 1877 for $195,000.

Click HERE for more on the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad.

Historical Notes

As soon as work started on Los Angeles Independence Railroad line from Los Angeles to Santa Monica the construction of a new wharf was begun. This was located near the old "Shoo Fly" landing and near the present foot of Colorado Avenue, where a stub of the old wharf still remains. The first pile was driven April 22nd, 1875, and the first boat landed at the wharf in June. This wharf was 1700 feet in length and reached a depth of thirty feet at low tide. It was substantially built, with depot, and warehouses at its terminus and cost about $45,000.

The wharf would be sold to Southern Pacific Railway Company in 1877. One short year later, Southern Pacific deemed the wharf unsafe for train usage and by 1888 it was torn down.

Historical Notes

The wharf stood just south of the present location of the Santa Monica Pier at the foot of Colorado Avenue.

Photo date devised based on the history of the Santa Monica Hotel, which was built in 1877 and the history of the photographer, Carleton E. Watkins, who made two visits to Southern California in 1877 and 1880.

Historical Notes

The east-west street adjacent to the railroad tracks was initially named "Railroad Avenue" due to its proximity to the rail line. This street would later be renamed Colorado Avenue in 1902, reflecting the practice of naming streets after western states.

Historical Notes

Today, the Santa Monica Pier is located slightly south of the original wharf built by the Los Angeles Independence Railroad Co. in Santa Monica, also known as Shoo Fly Landing. For better perspective, the two piers are aligned in this Then and Now image. The larger building atop the bluffs in the earlier photo is the Santa Monica Hotel, built in 1877 and situated on Ocean Avenue between Railroad Street (now Colorado Avenue) and Oregon Avenue (now Santa Monica Boulevard).

The contemporary image highlights a much wider beach, primarily due to human intervention through beach nourishment projects. Over 30 million cubic yards of sand have been added, sourced from infrastructure developments and dredging operations.

Historical Notes

Duffy’s Bathhouse, built in 1876 by entrepreneur Michael Duffy, was the first bathing establishment on Santa Monica’s beach. Located beneath the original Santa Monica Hotel at the base of the Palisades bluffs, it consisted of two simple structures housing 16 private rooms, each equipped with freshwater baths and showers—an uncommon amenity at the time. The facility operated until 1892 and played a foundational role in Santa Monica’s transformation from undeveloped coastline to a fashionable seaside retreat.

Historical Notes

In 1877, Baker & Jones constructed the Santa Monica Bath House at the foot of Utah Avenue, just north of Duffy’s earlier structure. With steam baths, saltwater plunges, freshwater facilities, and rooms for rent, it was one of Southern California’s first purpose-built bathhouses. Its close proximity to the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad Wharf made it especially accessible to Angelenos seeking oceanfront recreation, contributing to the rise of the North Beach district as a premier coastal destination.

Historical Notes

This left-eye panel from the 1877 stereoscopic image gives a clearer view of Santa Monica’s early recreational shoreline. The Santa Monica Bath House, built that same year, can be seen along with visitors arriving in their finest dress. The presence of the nearby railroad wharf helped turn what was once a quiet bluff-lined beach into a social and leisure hub for Los Angeles residents.

Historical Notes

By the 1880s, the two neighboring bathhouses—Duffy’s original 1876 facility and the larger 1877 Santa Monica Bath House—defined the city’s emerging North Beach area. The Santa Monica Bath House featured oversized bathtubs, steam rooms, and rentable rooms, reflecting a more structured and resort-like approach to seaside leisure. These early facilities laid the groundwork for Santa Monica’s rise as a prominent beach town.

Historical Notes

This image captures the peak of Santa Monica’s early bathhouse era. While Duffy’s modest operation was nearing its final years, the Santa Monica Bath House remained active into the late 1890s. Both were eventually surpassed by larger and more elaborate beachfront attractions like the North Beach Bath House (1894) and the Arcadia Hotel (1887), but their pioneering presence helped define Santa Monica’s coastal identity for decades to come.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Hotel, built in 1877, holds the distinction of being the first hotel in the city of Santa Monica, California. It was located on Ocean Avenue between what are now Colorado Avenue and Broadway, perched atop the coastal bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Its prime location offered guests sweeping ocean views and easy access to the beach below, making it a popular destination for early travelers.

Historical Notes

The historic gulch (ravine) in Santa Monica closely corresponds to the site of today’s McClure Tunnel, which passes through the ocean bluffs beneath the intersection of Colorado Avenue and Ocean Avenue, near the Santa Monica Pier. Historically, the gulch separated the bluffs north and south of Colorado Avenue and was a major topographical feature. The original railroad tunnel (built in 1886) and the later automobile tunnel (opened in 1936) were both constructed here to span the ravine, which was eventually filled in to create the modern connection between the Santa Monica Freeway (CA-1/CA-2) and Pacific Coast Highway (PCH).

Historical Notes

The location of the historic gulch (ravine) in Santa Monica corresponds closely to the site of the present-day McClure Tunnel, which connects the Santa Monica Freeway (CA-1/CA-2) to Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). The McClure Tunnel passes through the Santa Monica ocean bluffs, directly underneath the intersection of Colorado Avenue and Ocean Avenue, and near the Santa Monica Pier.

Historical Notes

At the time of the hotel’s construction, Santa Monica was a young and rapidly growing community, founded just two years earlier in 1875. The arrival of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad brought a steady stream of visitors and investors, creating a demand for accommodations. The Santa Monica Hotel met that need and quickly became a local social and recreational hub. Nearby, the city’s first bathhouse—built in 1876—added to the area’s appeal by offering freshwater baths and showers to guests and residents.

A later image with a bridge built over the ravine that is visible in the center of this image is seen HERE.

Historical Notes

At the time of the hotel’s construction, Santa Monica was a young and rapidly growing community, founded just two years earlier in 1875. The arrival of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad brought a steady stream of visitors and investors, creating a demand for accommodations. The Santa Monica Hotel met that need and quickly became a local social and recreational hub. Nearby, the city’s first bathhouse—built in 1876—added to the area’s appeal by offering freshwater baths and showers to guests and residents.

It's worth noting that while the Santa Monica Hotel was the first proper hotel in the town, there were earlier accommodations for visitors. For instance, in 1876, Michael Duffy constructed what is believed to be Southern California's first beachside bathhouse, which included 16 rooms with freshwater baths and showers. However, this was not considered a full-fledged hotel in the same sense as the Santa Monica Hotel.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Hotel helped shape the city’s early identity as a destination for leisure and tourism. Its legacy endures in Santa Monica’s continued status as a vibrant, world-renowned coastal retreat, and it remains an important chapter in the city's rich and colorful history.

Historical Notes

Unfortunately, the Santa Monica Hotel's existence was short-lived. It burned down in 1887, just ten years after its construction. In the same year, a new hotel called the Arcadia Hotel was built near the site of the original Santa Monica Hotel. The Arcadia Hotel was a more luxurious establishment, featuring 125 rooms and the latest amenities of the time.

Historical Notes

The hotel served Santa Monica for a decade before being destroyed by fire in 1887. Its owner, J.W. Scott, responded by building the larger and more luxurious Arcadia Hotel on a nearby site, which would go on to become a celebrated coastal landmark. Though its lifespan was brief, the Santa Monica Hotel played a key role in establishing the town’s reputation as a seaside resort.

Historical Notes

The first bathhouse on Santa Monica’s beach was built by Michael Duffy beneath the Santa Monica Hotel in 1876 and had 2 structures with 16 rooms with their own freshwater bath and shower. It closed in 1892.

Historical Notes

During the ensuing years several other bathouses were built at the same site. Bathouses, featuring hot saltwater baths, were a big tourist draw to Santa Monica in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

Historical Notes

In 1887 the Santa Monica Hotel burned down. That same year the owner of the former Santa Monica Hotel, J. W. Scott, constructed a massive new hotel, the Arcadia Hotel. It was located near the site of the original Santa Monica Hotel at the corner of Ocean Avenue between Colorado and Pico Boulevard. The luxurious Arcadia Hotel had 125-rooms and featured the latest amenities.

Historical Notes

lIn the 1880s, Santa Monica's North Beach area already boasted several bath houses, setting the foundation for its reputation as a popular seaside resort. The trend began in 1876 when Michael Duffy constructed what is believed to be Southern California's first beachside bathhouse, featuring 16 rooms with freshwater baths and showers. The following year, the Santa Monica Bath House opened adjacent to Duffy's establishment, offering additional amenities such as steam baths and a saltwater pool. This bath house, built by Baker & Jones at the foot of Utah Avenue, continued to operate throughout the 1880s, as evidenced by images from that period. The area's popularity further increased with the opening of the Arcadia Hotel in 1887, which provided its guests with access to a large saltwater bathhouse. While these early facilities were not as grand as the famous North Beach Bath House that would be built in 1894, they played a crucial role in establishing Santa Monica's North Beach as a sought-after destination for beachgoers and tourists during the 1880s.

Historical Notes

The above photo was taken from the L.A. & I. wharf.

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad (L.A. & I.) built a wharf in Santa Monica that opened in 1875, located near the present-day foot of Colorado Avenue, just north of where the Santa Monica Pier stands today. This original structure—also known as "Shoo Fly Landing"—was approximately 1,700 feet long and extended into waters 30 feet deep at low tide. Historical records confirm that the Santa Monica Pier is situated slightly south of the original wharf site. The L.A. & I. operated the wharf briefly before selling it, along with the railroad, to the Southern Pacific Railroad Company in 1877. By 1888, Southern Pacific had deemed the wharf unsafe for train operations and dismantled most of it, leaving behind only a shorter section or "stub" that remained in place until at least 1898.

Historical Notes

The above photo was taken from the Santa Monica Pier which is situated slightly south of the original Los Angeles and Independence Rairloar wharf from where the previous photo was taken.

Historical Notes

The bluff lines don’t match up exactly because the 1889 photo was taken from the old Los Angeles and Independence Railroad (L.A. & I.) wharf, which was closer to shore than the current view from the Santa Monica Pier, located slightly south of the original wharf. The beach is also much wider today—mainly because sand was added over the years through beach nourishment projects. More than 30 million cubic yards came from construction and dredging work.

Historical Notes

In 1769, Francisco Reyes journeyed to Alta California to help establish Franciscan missions and claimed the land for Spain. Soldiers gave the name Santa Monica to a mountain creek that flowed to the Pacific.

Historical Notes

During the second-half of the 19th-century, the canyon was known as a camping area and rustic retreat near the beach hotels and resorts of nearby Santa Monica.

Historical Notes

In the late 1880s, Abbot Kinney, the developer best known for designing the nearby community of Venice to the south, established an experimental forestry station and planted eucalyptus trees, for which the canyon is still known today.

Historical Notes

Despite the challenges of Mother Nature, the beauty and peace of The Canyon began attracted near-by Angelenos. A small grocery store sold fresh produce and items from the local Rancheros and small tents dotted the mouth of The Canyon for picnicking and camping.

Historical Notes

After Mexico won its independence from Spain, Francisco Reyes' grandson Ysidro and his neighbor, Francisco Marquez, were granted 6,656 acres of the Rancho Boca de Santa Monica (mouth of the Santa Monica). They built the area's first permanent structures.

Historical Notes

Remarks from donor Ernest Marquez, 2015: "The adobe house was built by my grandfather Pascual Marquez in 1875, about 75 yards from the adobe where he was born, built by his father Francisco in 1839. I think Pascual’s adobe collapsed in an earthquake in the 1930s."  

Historical Notes

These type of horse-drawn wagons transported visitors from Los Angeles to Santa Monica before the arrival of train service to the area.

Historical Notes

The 1st mail wagon was established by "Aunt Lucy" Cheney and began service in 1880. It provided mail service between Santa Monica and Topanga Canyon. They began to carry passengers (as shown here) in 1885. Also pictured is "Uncle Mose" Cheney.*

Early Santa Monica Beach Views

In the late 1880s, Santa Monica was transforming from a quiet coastal outpost into one of Southern California’s first true seaside resorts. What made this transformation possible was not just the ocean, but transportation, investment, and vision. Railroads brought thousands of visitors from Los Angeles. Entrepreneurs built bath houses and hotels. Promoters advertised fresh air, saltwater bathing, and scenic beauty.

These photographs capture Santa Monica before the pier, before automobiles lined Ocean Avenue, and before the beach was widened by modern engineering projects. The shoreline was narrower, the landscape more natural, and the pace of life slower. Together, these images show the early stages of a coastal identity that would define Santa Monica for generations.

Historical Notes

North Beach emerged as a popular destination in the 1880s. Its success was closely tied to the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad, controlled by U.S. Senator John P. Jones. The railroad made it possible for residents of Los Angeles to reach the ocean quickly and affordably. By the late 1880s, thousands of visitors were arriving daily during the summer months.

The bath house facilities of this era offered changing rooms and saltwater bathing, which was believed to promote good health. These early structures laid the foundation for the larger and more elaborate North Beach Bath House built in 1894, designed by architect Sumner P. Hunt and financed by Senator Jones.

Historical Notes

This view shows the natural shoreline as it existed in the late 19th century. The beach was narrower and shaped entirely by coastal forces. There were no paved roads, no large public facilities, and no wide engineered sand areas.

During the 20th century, tens of millions of cubic yards of sand were added to Santa Monica and Venice beaches through replenishment projects. The result is the much broader shoreline seen today.

Historical Notes

Ocean bathing became increasingly popular during the 1880s. Bath houses provided changing rooms and heated saltwater plunges, reflecting the belief that saltwater had health benefits. The “Hot Salt Water” sign advertised one of the main attractions of the facility.

The presence of a horse-drawn wagon and visible carriage tracks in the sand reminds us that the beach also functioned as a roadway. Before automobiles, horses provided transportation both to and along the shoreline.

Historical Notes

By 1887, Santa Monica was firmly established as a seaside resort. Visitors came by rail to enjoy the fresh ocean air and open shoreline. The landscape remained largely undeveloped, with the Palisades rising prominently above the beach.

This natural setting helped define Santa Monica’s early identity as a place of health, leisure, and scenic beauty.

Historical Notes

Bicycles became popular in the late 19th century, and the firm sand near the shoreline provided an ideal surface for riding. The beach served not only as a bathing area but also as a public gathering space for walking, socializing, and recreation.

The absence of automobiles and heavy development gives this scene a quiet, open character very different from the modern coastline.

Historical Notes

By the 1890s, beachgoing had become more common and more social. Bathing suits reflected Victorian standards of modesty, covering most of the body.

The tracks left by horses and carriages show how people moved along the shoreline before the arrival of motor vehicles. These details help illustrate everyday life at the beach more than a century ago.

Historical Notes

The Arcadia Hotel opened in 1887 and was the largest structure in Santa Monica at the time. It was owned by J. W. Scott and named for Arcadia Bandini de Baker, wife of Santa Monica cofounder Robert S. Baker. The hotel symbolized the city’s ambitions as a first-class resort destination.

The Los Angeles and Independence Wharf once extended into the Pacific and supported both freight and passenger service. Together, the railroad and the wharf helped transform Santa Monica from a quiet coastal settlement into one of Southern California’s earliest beach resorts.

Historical Notes

Although the camera angles differ slightly, the most noticeable change is the width of the beach. The shoreline today is far broader than it was in 1887. In the late 19th century, the beach was narrower and shaped entirely by natural coastal forces.

Beginning in the 1940s, millions of cubic yards of sand were added to Santa Monica and Venice beaches through large-scale replenishment projects. These efforts were intended to reduce erosion, protect coastal development, and expand recreational space. The result is the wide, engineered shoreline seen today. Very different from the natural beach of the 1880s.

Early Santa Monica Cottages and House Tents

In the late nineteenth century the shoreline of Santa Monica looked very different from the wide beach seen today. Below the coastal bluffs, a narrow strip of sand was lined with house tents, small wooden cottages, bathhouses, and vendor stands that together formed one of the earliest beach resort communities in Southern California. Visitors from Los Angeles arrived by train, some coming only for an afternoon and others renting simple tent houses and staying for the entire summer season.

The town itself had been founded in 1875 by Nevada Senator John Percival Jones, who also built the first railroad connecting Santa Monica to Los Angeles. That rail line made the coast reachable in under an hour from the city and set off a wave of seasonal tourism that transformed the quiet shoreline into a lively gathering place. By 1889 the Southern Pacific Railroad was bringing two hundred thousand visitors a year to the beach. The area north of the Arcadia Hotel, known as North Beach, had become one of the most popular destinations on the Pacific coast.

The informal world of tents and cottages did not last long. By the early 1890s railroad tracks were being laid along the shoreline to serve the newly completed Long Wharf, one of the longest piers in the world at the time, and the industrial expansion that followed pushed out the small seasonal settlements that had defined the beach for more than a decade. The grand Arcadia Hotel eventually closed, the Long Wharf was dismantled, and the beach itself was widened far beyond its natural size through decades of sand replenishment projects. What remains of that first seaside world exists only in photographs, showing a narrow shore and the people who came to the ocean before Santa Monica became the city the world knows today.

Historical Notes

In the 1880s visitors to Santa Monica often stayed in simple cottages or house tents built directly on the sand. These modest structures provided inexpensive lodging for families who came to enjoy the cool ocean air and the quiet setting along the shore. The tents of that era were built on raised wooden platforms with framed walls and canvas roofs. They provided enough shelter to make a week or two beside the ocean genuinely comfortable.

Many of the house tents at North Beach were rented by the week or by the entire summer season, and some families returned year after year to the same tent sites. Early newspaper accounts even describe rows of numbered tent houses so that returning visitors could reserve their preferred location the following season. Over time this created something that functioned almost like a recurring seasonal neighborhood, one where families got to know their neighbors, children played together on the sand, and informal social routines developed around the rhythms of the tide and the train schedule.

In this sense the tent houses were not simply temporary shelters. They were the beginning of a community life that would later find a more permanent expression in the bungalow courts and beach cottages that appeared across Santa Monica and Venice in the years that followed. The Southern Pacific Railroad brought two hundred thousand tourists to Santa Monica in 1889 alone, and the steady flow of visitors gave the shoreline a lively and social atmosphere that would have been difficult to imagine only a decade earlier.

Historical Notes

This view shows North Beach during the early years of Santa Monica's development as a resort destination. The large building visible in the distance is the Arcadia Hotel, which opened on January 25, 1887 and quickly became the most prominent landmark along the entire shoreline. Named in honor of Arcadia Bandini de Baker, the co-founder of Santa Monica, the hotel was considered the finest seaside hotel in California at the time of its opening. It rose five stories above the beach on the ocean side, offered a dining room for two hundred guests, therapeutic saltwater baths, and a unique gravity powered switchback railway that carried guests between the bluff top station and the hotel entrance below.

Also visible in the distance is the remaining portion of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad Wharf, built in the 1870s. The structure had once served as a shipping pier before economic difficulties and the decline of Senator Jones' silver mining interests brought the line to a halt. By the time this photograph was taken the wharf had already been largely abandoned, though its pilings still reached into the bay as a reminder of the grander commercial ambitions that had shaped Santa Monica from its very beginning.

Historical Notes

The photograph was taken from the bluff overlooking North Beach. The wooden staircase known as the 99 Steps was constructed in 1875 to provide access from the bluff top down to the beach below. Located at the foot of Arizona Avenue, the steps were one of the most used pathways on the entire Santa Monica waterfront. Visitors descended them to reach the sand, the small cottages and tent houses along the shore, and the growing number of bathhouses and vendor stalls that lined the beach.

The land along the edge of the bluffs was donated to the city in 1892 by Senator Jones and Arcadia Bandini de Baker. The park stretched from Colorado Avenue north to Montana Avenue and was first called Linda Vista Park, a Spanish phrase meaning beautiful view. The founders were also aware that the bluffs were barren and wind swept, with thin and unstable soils considered unfit for residential construction. The gift preserved the view for the public while passing on land that could not easily be built upon. The park was renamed Palisades Park in 1915 and remains one of the most recognizable landscapes in Santa Monica today.

Historical Notes

From the bluff above the beach visitors could look south toward the Arcadia Hotel and the remains of the early railroad wharf stretching into the bay. The 99 Steps provided one of the most direct routes between the bluff top and the beach below, and from this elevated vantage point the full sweep of North Beach and its informal seasonal settlement was visible in a single glance.

The beach scene captured in this photograph represents a brief window of time before large scale transportation and harbor projects began to transform the coastline. Within only a few years the expansion of Southern Pacific rail lines along the shoreline would bring industrial activity directly to the edge of North Beach, permanently altering the quiet and informal character of the place these early visitors had come to enjoy.

Historical Notes

This colorized version of the original photograph offers a different way of seeing the same scene. The addition of color draws attention to details that can be easy to overlook in a black and white image, including the texture of the sandy bluff, the weathered wood of the staircase, and the open expanse of sky above Santa Monica Bay.

Colorization also has a way of closing the distance between past and present. What might feel like a remote historical record in its original form becomes something more immediate when rendered in color, a reminder that the people who stood on these steps and looked out over North Beach experienced the world in the same vivid way that visitors do today.

Historical Notes

By the early 1890s the area north of the Arcadia Hotel had developed into one of the liveliest seaside resort districts in Southern California. Tent houses stood in long rows along the sand and provided seasonal accommodations for visitors arriving from Los Angeles and other inland communities. Many people came simply to walk the beach or breathe the ocean air, while others swam, fished from the old wharf pilings, or gathered on the shore for picnics and social events.

The scale of change over those few years is worth pausing to consider. In 1880 the population of Santa Monica had bottomed out at only 350 residents, and the town was struggling through a period of economic depression following the collapse of Senator Jones' silver mining interests. A decade later, with the Southern Pacific bringing hundreds of thousands of visitors each year, the same shoreline had become one of the most visited stretches of coast in the entire American West.

Historical Notes

Railroads played a defining role in the early growth of Santa Monica, and by 1893 their influence over the shoreline was impossible to ignore. The first tracks had reached the city in October 1875 with the opening of Senator Jones' Los Angeles and Independence Railroad, a sixteen mile line connecting Santa Monica with downtown Los Angeles. In the early 1890s the Southern Pacific dramatically expanded its presence along the shore, laying new tracks beside the beach road and extending them north toward a massive new structure known as the Long Wharf, also called Port Los Angeles.

Completed in May 1893, the Long Wharf measured approximately 4,700 feet and was considered one of the longest wharves in the world at the time. The industrial operations it brought to the shoreline changed North Beach permanently. The 99 Steps were modified to allow trains to pass beneath them, small cottages and seasonal shelters disappeared as railroad infrastructure took their place, and the easy informal character of the beach gave way to something far more commercial. The road beside the tracks was eventually renamed Roosevelt Highway in the 1920s and later became the route now known as Pacific Coast Highway.

Historical Notes

The bluff top park seen in this photograph was known at the time as Linda Vista Park. The land had been donated to the city in 1892 by Senator John Percival Jones and Arcadia Bandini de Baker so that the edge of the bluffs overlooking Santa Monica Bay would remain open public space. From this elevated position visitors enjoyed wide and unobstructed views of the bay, the Arcadia Hotel below, and the beach along which the seasonal tent community had spread each summer for more than a decade.

By the mid-1890s the world visible from this bluff was already beginning to change. The Long Wharf now extended far into the bay to the north, railroad tracks ran along the shoreline below, and the simple tent community of North Beach was shrinking as more organized and commercial beach facilities replaced the informal arrangements of the previous decade. The park itself, renamed Palisades Park in 1915, would outlast all of them and remains one of Santa Monica's most cherished public spaces today.

Historical Notes

The earlier photograph shows the original 99 Steps descending from the bluff down to North Beach. At the time the image was taken only a thin band of sand separated the base of the cliffs from the surf, and the tent cottages and small wooden structures near the foot of the steps occupied nearly the full width of the available beach.

Over the past century the shoreline of Santa Monica has been transformed through a series of large scale engineering efforts. In the early 1900s city officials began bringing in imported sand to widen the naturally rocky and narrow beaches for recreational use. Between 1930 and 1993 more than 130 million cubic yards of sand were placed on Southern California beaches as part of ongoing nourishment programs. The place where the 99 Steps once met the shore, where house tents stood in summer rows and visitors walked barefoot toward the Pacific, now lies buried beneath a beach that is largely the product of human engineering.

Closing Notes

The photographs in this section capture a moment in the early history of Santa Monica that passed very quickly. For visitors arriving from Los Angeles in the 1880s and early 1890s, the shoreline below the bluffs offered something that was still rare in Southern California at the time: a place where ordinary people could spend days beside the ocean in simple surroundings, at modest cost, with little formality and a great deal of open air and freedom.

The forces that ended that world were not dramatic. They were the ordinary pressures of growth, commerce, and ambition. Railroads needed more land along the shore. Hotels needed more amenities to stay competitive. Developers needed more infrastructure to attract investment and permanent residents. Within a generation the tent community had vanished, the Long Wharf had been built and then dismantled, the Arcadia Hotel had closed and been torn down, and the beach itself had been remade by human engineering into something wider and more uniform than nature had ever provided. The small seaside village of cottages and canvas shelters slowly disappeared, leaving behind only a handful of photographs that record the earliest days of Santa Monica as a seaside resort and the simple world that existed along its shore before the modern city arrived.

Arcadia Hotel

Historical Notes

The Hotel Arcadia was part of a larger railroad strategy. J. W. Scott purchased a swath of land from the Southern Pacific Railroad Company in 1885 on the condition that he build a fine hotel. He subdivided the land into 40 lots, sold 30 of them for $1,200 each, and used the resulting funds to begin construction on the Arcadia. The railroad's Pacific Improvement Company held a stake in the project as part of its plan to develop destinations for train passengers.

The hotel was built next to a steep cliff and showed only three stories on the Ocean Avenue side while rising five full stories on the beach side. Scott had previously operated Santa Monica's earlier Santa Monica Hotel, and he brought that same experience to what became the grandest structure the town had ever seen. With its passenger elevators, ocean-view rooms, and incandescent electric lighting, the Arcadia was widely promoted as one of the most modern resorts on the Pacific Coast.

Historical Notes

By 1891 the hotel was billing itself as "Unquestionably the most elegant resort on the Coast," boasting in advertisements of its beautiful ballroom, passenger elevators, and incandescent lights in every room. Resort advertisements also highlighted the hotel's hot and cold saltwater baths located in the bathhouse at beach level. The Arcadia quickly became a destination for travelers arriving by rail from Los Angeles who were seeking ocean air, refined dining, and the relaxing pace of coastal society life.

As one historian wrote, guests often made mention in postcards and letters of the phosphorescent surf on moonlit nights, and how, while listening to the hotel's string orchestra play in the ballroom, the water seemed to dance to the rhythm of the music. Whether a visitor came from Los Angeles for a single night or traveled from the East Coast for an entire summer at the shore, the Arcadia had a way of making people fall in love with it.

This view from the beach captures a side of the Arcadia Hotel that Ocean Avenue visitors never saw. From this angle the full five-story height of the building is apparent, and the working infrastructure of a seaside resort comes into focus. The large water tank and windmill visible at the right were practical necessities, using the reliable coastal breeze to pump and store fresh water for the hotel's plumbing. The Arcadia Bath House occupied the base of the bluff between the hotel and the shoreline, offering guests hot and cold saltwater baths, dressing rooms, and a covered walkway across the sand. The Billiard Parlor sign speaks to the range of entertainments on offer, as billiards was a fashionable pastime among the Gilded Age guests who filled the hotel's rooms, keeping visitors occupied even on days when the surf was rough or the weather was cool.

The beachgoers visible in the sand reflect the bathing fashions of the era. Visitors to California beaches in the 1890s typically wore full-length wool bathing costumes and carried parasols to protect themselves from the sun, as tanned skin was not yet considered fashionable. Lying directly on the open sand, as several figures in this photograph appear to be doing, was itself a relatively new idea. For most of the century the beach had been a place to visit rather than to linger on, and the relaxed posture of the figures here suggests that Santa Monica was quietly helping to change that.

Historical Notes

From the hotel's broad verandas guests could look north along the shoreline toward the Palisades and the growing beach settlement below the bluffs. The remains of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad Wharf could still be seen extending into the bay. Such views were a major attraction for visitors who came to Santa Monica to enjoy sea breezes and the unhurried pace of the coastal resort community. The observation tower, which rose approximately 136 feet above beach level, gave those who climbed it an even more sweeping panorama of the coastline in both directions.

Historical Notes

The hotel was named for Arcadia Bandini de Baker, one of the most remarkable women in the history of Southern California. Born in 1827 into the Bandini family, one of the most prominent Californio families whose vast ranchlands spread from San Diego through Riverside and San Bernardino, Arcadia entered an arranged marriage at age 14 with Abel Stearns, whose commercial enterprises made him one of the wealthiest men in California. Stearns died in 1871, leaving his entire fortune to Arcadia.

In 1875, the same year Santa Monica was first planned out, the widowed Arcadia married Colonel Robert S. Baker, business partner of Senator John P. Jones, the founder of Santa Monica. She was a skilled businesswoman, a renowned hostess, and through the wealth of her family and her husbands she amassed an enormous fortune. In her later life she was considered "the great benefactress of Santa Monica" for her investments in and contributions to the development of the city. She never spoke English in public, conducting all her business affairs in fluent Castilian Spanish with an interpreter at her side, a deliberate statement of cultural pride at a time when Californio families were losing their footing in a rapidly changing region.

She and Senator Jones donated the land for Palisades Park, and she donated 600 acres for what would become the Veterans Administration campus in West Los Angeles. Upon her death in 1912, Arcadia Bandini de Baker left an estate valued between eight and fifteen million dollars and was considered one of the wealthiest women in America. Because she left no children and no will, her estate became the subject of the largest probate court battle ever recorded in California. The hotel that bore her name was a fitting tribute to a woman whose vision helped shape the entire western edge of Los Angeles.

Historical Notes

The palms in the garden on the land side of the Arcadia were a celebrated feature of the hotel. Some of them survived the demolition of the hotel in 1909 and were transplanted to other developments in Santa Monica, becoming the only known physical elements of the grand hotel to endure.

Despite its prestige, the Arcadia struggled during periods of slow tourism. The hotel and the rapidly growing community of Santa Monica were hit hard by the Panic of 1893, a nationwide economic depression that lasted until 1897, abruptly chilling the enthusiasm of the Gilded Age. The hotel operated as a resort for the last time in 1904, when the Occidental Club of Los Angeles purchased the property. By January 1907, the Southern California Military Academy had taken over the building on a lease, a quiet and unceremonious end for what had once been the grandest address on the Pacific Coast.

Historical Notes

This panoramic view from the street side reveals the full sweep of the Arcadia's carefully designed grounds. The circular carriage drive, manicured garden beds, and rows of young palm trees were as much a part of the hotel's identity as the building itself. Arriving guests would have followed this drive to the entrance, the landscaping signaling from the moment of arrival that this was no ordinary destination. In the far right of the frame, the open expanse of Santa Monica Bay is visible beyond the bluff's edge, a reminder of how close the ocean always was.

After the hotel closed the property remained vacant for several years. The end came in 1909 when the grand old hotel was demolished to make way for an exclusive residential development called Seaside Terrace. The celebrated palm trees that lined the grounds were carefully dug up and transplanted to other properties around Santa Monica, becoming the only living remnants of the Arcadia to survive. Today a single street called Arcadia Terrace is the only reminder of where the legendary hotel once stood.

Historical Notes

This view shows the railroad station that served passengers arriving from Los Angeles. The railroad played a major role in Santa Monica's early development by making the seaside town easily accessible to visitors who might otherwise have faced a long overland journey. Beyond the depot the Palisades and the sweeping coastline of Santa Monica Bay can be seen stretching northward. The railroad connection was not merely convenient but essential. Without it, a resort hotel of the Arcadia's size and ambition would have had no reliable way to fill its rooms.

Historical Notes

In the hotel's early years, arriving guests did not simply walk from the train depot to the front door. They first had to cross a steep, 500-foot-wide ravine, and the Thompson Gravity Switchback Railroad was the solution. Its single car held ten passengers, who paid five cents for a round trip along a gently undulating track of 500 feet, using gravity rather than steam or coal to propel it up the bluff on the other side. Its inventor, LaMarcus Adna Thompson, had already built a similar ride at Coney Island in 1884 and is widely credited as the father of the modern roller coaster. The Santa Monica version was quieter and slower than a true thrill ride, but it gave new arrivals a memorable introduction to the hotel grounds and a small taste of what the resort had in store.

The ride operated from 1887 to 1889, a brief window that coincided with the hotel's earliest and most celebrated years. When it closed, guests arrived by carriage or on foot across the new bridge that eventually replaced the ravine crossing. Even so, the Thompson Switchback left its mark on Santa Monica's identity as a place where recreation and invention arrived together, and hinted at the amusement parks and pleasure piers that would define the coastline in the decades to come.

The Arcadia Hotel was famous for its elegance, but in September 1903 it became the scene of one of the most sensational crimes in the history of Los Angeles. Colonel Griffith J. Griffith, best known today as the man who donated the land that became Griffith Park, was staying in the presidential suite of the Hotel Arcadia with his wife Tina and their teenage son during the summer of 1903. Throughout the stay Griffith had grown increasingly paranoid, convinced that someone was trying to poison him.

On the evening of September 3, 1903, as the family prepared to return to Los Angeles the following morning, Griffith slipped out of the suite and went directly to the hotel bar, where he consumed a number of powerful absinthe cocktails. He then returned to the suite and joined his wife in packing. He retrieved her prayer book, handed it to her, and ordered her to kneel on the floor. As she knelt, he pressed a .38 caliber revolver against her. The bullet struck her head. Bloodied and dazed, she threw herself through a hotel window and fell nearly two stories onto an awning below, breaking her shoulder. She survived, but lost her right eye and was permanently disfigured.

Griffith was charged with assault with a deadly weapon with intent to commit murder. The prosecution was led by Henry T. Gage, former governor of California, while Griffith was defended by the brilliant attorney Earl Rogers. Griffith served a year and nine months in prison. The trial drew enormous attention across Southern California and cast a long shadow over the hotel's final years. By the time the Arcadia was demolished in 1909, the shooting had become the most remembered event in its history, a dark footnote to what had otherwise been one of the most celebrated resort hotels the Pacific Coast had ever known.

Thompson Gravity Switchback Railroad

(aka Switchback Roller Coaster)

Historical Notes

A special delight for Arcadia Hotel guests was a two-track gravity switchback roller coaster, which in a one minute journey, could whisk guests either to or from the hotel and back again. For five cents, riders would climb a platform to board the large bench-like car and were pushed off to coast 300 ft. down the track across the ravine.  The car went just over 6 mph.  At the top of the other platform the vehicle was switched to a return track or "switched back" (hence the name).

Historical Notes

The original Switchback Railway (Coney Island) was the first roller coaster designed as an amusement ride in America. It was designed by LaMarcus Adna Thompson in 1881 and constructed in 1884. It appears Thompson based his design, at least in part, on the Mauch Chunk Switchback Railway which was a coal-mining train that had started carrying passengers as a thrill ride in 1827.

Historical Notes

The Arcadia Hotel opened for business in 1887 and was located on Ocean Avenue between Railroad Avenue (later known as Colorado Avenue) and Front (later known as Pico Boulevard). The Arcadia was the largest structure in Santa Monica at the time of its construction. The 125-room hotel was owned by J.W. Scott, the proprietor of the city's first hotel, the Santa Monica Hotel. The hotel was named for Arcadia Bandini de Baker, the wife of Santa Monica cofounder Colonel R. S. Baker.

The hotel was built next to a steep cliff and shows only 3 stories on the Ocean Avenue side and 5 stories on the beach side as seen above.

Historical Notes

The North Beach Bath House was built in 1898 and replaced the 1876-built Santa Monica Bath House.

Historical Notes

When it opened in 1887, Santa Monica's ritzy Arcadia Hotel offered its guests a large saltwater bathhouse, the Arcadia Bath House.

Southern Pacific Railroad Tunnel

In 1891, the Southern Pacific Railroad carved a tunnel through the coastal bluffs beneath Ocean Avenue near the Arcadia Hotel as part of its rail route north from Santa Monica toward Santa Monica Canyon and the Long Wharf district. The line ran along the base of the bluffs below the city’s premier seaside resort area, where visitors above could watch trains emerge from the tunnel near the beach. For more than forty years locomotives used this passage while carrying passengers and freight along the shoreline. Rail service ended in 1933, and three years later the old railroad opening was replaced by a wider automobile tunnel. Today motorists entering Pacific Coast Highway at the western end of Interstate 10 pass through this same historic gateway, now known as the McClure Tunnel.

Historical Notes

This view captures the layered landscape of early Santa Monica. Above the rail line stood the Arcadia Hotel, opened in 1887 and long considered the city’s most elegant seaside resort. Just below the bluff top hotels and streets, Southern Pacific’s rail line passed through a tunnel beneath Ocean Avenue before continuing north along the shoreline.

At right, the stairway known as the “55 Steps” connected the bluff top resort district with the beach, bath houses, and railroad corridor below. The scene illustrates how closely transportation, tourism, and recreation were intertwined in Santa Monica during the city’s early resort era.

Historical Notes

This photograph shows a Southern Pacific locomotive emerging from the curved tunnel opening beneath the Santa Monica bluffs. The rail line formed part of Southern Pacific’s coastal operations during the period when the company was developing Santa Monica as a freight and passenger terminal connected with the nearby Long Wharf.

Passenger service later included Pacific Electric interurban operations along the route. Trains continued to use the line until 1933. After rail service ended, the original railroad tunnel was replaced by a wider concrete automobile tunnel that opened on February 1, 1936. The new roadway connected Lincoln Boulevard and Olympic Boulevard with Roosevelt Highway, later renamed Pacific Coast Highway.

Click HERE to see more.

The historic railroad tunnel once carried steam locomotives along the base of the Santa Monica bluffs. Today the same passage serves automobile traffic entering Pacific Coast Highway from Interstate 10.

Although the Arcadia Hotel, bath houses, and bluff top stairways have long since disappeared, the geography remains strikingly similar. Travelers still pass through the bluff at nearly the same location where Southern Pacific locomotives emerged more than a century ago. The McClure Tunnel continues to mark one of the primary gateways between the city and the Santa Monica shoreline.

Arcadia Hotel and the Santa Monica Bluffs

1904 - 1905

At the turn of the twentieth century, the bluffs above Santa Monica Beach formed one of the most dramatic seaside landscapes in Southern California. Along the edge of what was then known as Linda Vista Park, visitors could look down upon bath houses, piers, railroad tracks, and the wide sandy beach below. Dominating the skyline was the Arcadia Hotel, opened in 1887 as Santa Monica’s premier seaside resort. From its bluff top setting the hotel overlooked both the growing beach recreation district and the Southern Pacific rail line that ran along the base of the cliffs. Although the Arcadia Hotel stood for only twenty years, it helped establish Santa Monica’s reputation as one of the leading coastal destinations of the era.

Historical Notes

This view captures the layered geography that defined early Santa Monica. At the top of the bluffs, Linda Vista Park offered sweeping views of the ocean and beach below. Beneath the cliffs, the Southern Pacific Railroad ran along the shoreline, carrying passengers to and from the seaside resort district.

The Arcadia Hotel, visible at center, quickly became the social centerpiece of Santa Monica after opening in 1887. Nearby bath houses and piers served the growing number of visitors arriving by train from Los Angeles. Together these elements helped transform the once quiet coastline into one of Southern California’s earliest beach recreation centers.

Historical Notes

Colorization helps reveal the natural tones of the Santa Monica bluffs and the wide sandy beach that attracted visitors to the area. The bluffs themselves were formed from layers of marine sediments and alluvial deposits, shaped over centuries by erosion and coastal weathering.

From the bluff top promenade visitors could watch trains passing below, bathers gathering near the bath houses, and ships moving along the Pacific horizon. The view helped establish Linda Vista Park as one of Santa Monica’s earliest scenic landmarks.

Historical Notes

Winter storms frequently damaged the early wooden structures built along the Santa Monica shoreline. Boardwalks, bath houses, and piers were particularly vulnerable to heavy surf and high tides.

Scenes like this illustrate the fragile nature of early beachfront development before modern coastal protections were introduced. Despite periodic storm damage, the beach remained a major attraction for visitors arriving by train from Los Angeles.

Historical Notes

The presence of spectators in the photograph suggests that storm damage along the beachfront quickly became a public spectacle. Residents and visitors often gathered along the shore to observe the effects of winter storms on piers, boardwalks, and bath houses.

In the background, the Arcadia Hotel continues to dominate the bluff top skyline. Just two years after this photograph was taken, the landmark hotel would be demolished in 1907 as Santa Monica entered a new phase of coastal development.

Historical Notes

The sign reading “NOTICE: LADIES ON BEACH MUST WEAR BLOOMERS – CITY ORD. 72” appears to be a novelty reproduction rather than an authentic municipal posting from Venice Beach or nearby coastal towns. However, its message draws from real history. In the early 1900s, many seaside communities in Southern California, including Venice, enforced strict modesty laws that dictated what women could wear at the beach. Bloomers and full-length bathing attire were often required, and so-called “swimsuit police” or “beach censors” patrolled the sand, sometimes measuring women’s suits to ensure compliance. Famous photographs from the 1920s and 1930s show officers at Venice Beach inspecting beachgoers’ attire—evidence of genuine social norms that inspired signs like this, whether in jest or homage. While no known city ordinance matches “ORD. 72,” the sign captures, through exaggeration or satire, the era’s tension between public decency codes and evolving fashion freedoms.

Historical Notes

In the 1890s, Santa Monica Beach was a burgeoning seaside resort, attracting visitors eager to enjoy the Pacific surf and the burgeoning amenities of the area. Group photographs from this era often depict bathers in modest swimwear, reflective of the Victorian and Edwardian sensibilities of the time.

These group photos were more than mere snapshots; they served as cherished mementos of seaside excursions. Photographers would set up along the beach, offering visitors the opportunity to capture their leisure moments, which were then printed as souvenir postcards or keepsakes. Such images not only documented personal memories but also contributed to the broader cultural narrative of beach-going as a fashionable and wholesome activity during that period.

Historical Notes

Women's bathing attire typically consisted of dark-colored, knee-length dresses with puffed sleeves, worn over bloomers or stockings, and complemented by bathing caps or wide-brimmed hats to shield from the sun. Men's swimwear was usually one-piece woolen suits that covered the torso and extended to the mid-thigh, often in darker hues.

The Santa Monica Cycle Path was a pioneering bicycle route in Los Angeles, completed in 1900. It was an 18 mile cycleway that provided a smooth and reliable route from downtown Los Angeles to the coast at Santa Monica. At a time when most roads were rough and poorly maintained, the path offered cyclists a safer and more efficient alternative.

The cycle path was a six foot wide gravel road reserved for cyclists and pedestrians. Decorative arches marked the route and prevented wagons and buggies from entering. These arches also displayed advertisements that helped fund construction and maintenance of the path.

Along the route, riders passed through open farmland, meadows, and developing industrial areas, including the Hauser slaughterhouse. Newly planted pepper trees provided shade and made the ride more comfortable.

When the path opened, it greatly reduced travel time between Los Angeles and Santa Monica. It quickly became popular with cyclists who no longer had to rely on difficult wagon roads.

Location note
The intersection shown here was Washington Street and Third Avenue. Washington Street later became Washington Boulevard. Third Avenue no longer exists under that name. Based on early maps and period references, this location corresponds approximately to today’s Washington Boulevard near the former Rosedale Cemetery area, close to present day Normandie Avenue. The exact alignment of Third Avenue does not survive on modern street maps.

The 18 mile Santa Monica Cycle Path was a dedicated bicycle route that connected downtown Los Angeles with the coastal city of Santa Monica. Beginning near the city center, the path followed Washington Street, later renamed Washington Boulevard, creating a direct east west route across the city.

Key intersections along the way included Third Avenue and Western Avenue. West of these points, the path passed through less developed areas, including what is now Culver City, before reaching Santa Monica and its coastal attractions.

Washington Street was renamed Washington Boulevard in the early 1900s as the roadway was widened and improved. By 1905, it was already commonly referred to as Washington Boulevard and was used for organized horse driving events west of Western Avenue.

The Santa Monica Cycle Path was built as part of the good roads movement led by the League of American Wheelmen. The movement focused on improving road conditions, first for cyclists and later for all travelers. Fundraising for the path also served as publicity, with supporters purchasing good roads buttons instead of paying a toll.

The path crossed Washington Boulevard at Western Avenue, an important point along the route between Los Angeles and Santa Monica.

Despite its early success, the rise of the automobile in the early 20th century led to the decline of dedicated bicycle paths like this one. The Santa Monica Cycle Path eventually fell into disuse as streets were redesigned to serve cars. Even so, it remains an important chapter in Los Angeles transportation history and an early example of dedicated infrastructure for cyclists.

The Santa Monica Cycle Path, along with the California Cycleway in Pasadena, reflected the cycling boom of the 1890s, when Los Angeles had more than 35,000 cyclists. These projects were early attempts to create dedicated infrastructure for non motorized travel, long before automobiles shaped the region.

Although neither project lasted for many years, both remain important chapters in the history of transportation and urban planning in Southern California.

Historical Notes

Senator Jones built a mansion, Miramar, and his wife Georgina planted a Moreton Bay Fig tree in its front yard in 1889. The tree is now in the courtyard of the Fairmont Miramar Hotel and is the second-largest such tree in California, the largest being the tree in Santa Barbara.

In 1924 Senator Jones’ mansion became the grand Miramar Hotel

Originally the location of Santa Monica's founding father Senator Jones mansion, the Miramar has provided shelter for rich and famous guests looking for an extended beach stay since the 1920s. Notables include Cary Grant, John F Kennedy, Charles Lindbergh and Eleanor Roosevelt.

In 1924 the six-story Palisades Wing was constructed to provide apartments for guests who planned lengthy stays at the beach. Scandinavian beauty Greta Garbo was one of the first celebrity guests to move into the wing and resided there for more than four years.

Sultry blonde Jean Harlow rented one of the Miramar's bungalows in the early 1930s, and years later another famous blonde, Marilyn Monroe, frequently retreated to the Miramar when she wanted to disappear from the media.

The above map was prepared by the Title Guarantee & Trust Company in 1935.  Other landmarks on the map include, from left to right, top to bottom: Calabasas, Santa Susana Pass, Chatsworth, Fremont Pass, San Bernardo, El Mission de San Fernando, Tujunga Canyon, Verdugo Mountains, Burbank, Glendale, Laurel Canyon, Cahuenga Pass, La Canada, Verdugo Canyon, Pasadena, Santa Monica Mountains, Sepulveda Canyon, Franklin Canyon, Sherman, Laguna, La Brea, Brea Pits, Hollywood, Colegrove, Bath House, Canon de Santa Monica, Casa de Reyes, Casa de Marquez, Rodeo de las Aguas, Las Cienegas, Westlake Park, Los Angeles, Santa Monica, Rincon de los Bueyos, and La Ballona.

Historical Notes

The Long Wharf, also known as Port Los Angeles or the Mile Long Pier, was constructed between 1892 and 1894 by the Southern Pacific Railroad Company just north of Santa Monica Canyon. At nearly a mile in length, it was the longest wooden pier in the world at the time. The wharf was built to serve as a deep-water port for the Los Angeles region, addressing the area’s lack of a natural harbor and facilitating the transfer of goods and passengers between ships and railroads.

Historical Notes

The Long Wharf, also known as the Santa Monica Wharf, was constructed in 1893 by the Southern Pacific Railroad as part of an ambitious plan to establish a deep-water port for Los Angeles at Santa Monica. Stretching 4,600 feet into the Pacific Ocean, it was the longest wooden pier in the world at the time. Southern Pacific sought to control the region’s shipping access and bypass the shallow, undeveloped port at San Pedro. The wharf allowed cargo ships to dock directly offshore and transfer goods to waiting trains. However, political pressure—led by the "Free Harbor Fight" and backed by the federal government—ultimately favored San Pedro, which became the official Port of Los Angeles in 1897, rendering the Long Wharf obsolete within just a few years.

Historical Notes

The wharf’s construction was part of a larger vision by railroad magnate Collis P. Huntington and Nevada Senator John P. Jones, who hoped to make Santa Monica Bay the principal port of Los Angeles. With double railroad tracks running its length, the Long Wharf quickly became a bustling hub for lumber and other imports essential to Southern California’s rapid development. Its impressive size and modern facilities made it a symbol of the region’s ambitions.

Historical Notes

Pictured with surveying instruments during the early planning of the Long Wharf in Santa Monica are (left to right): Fred Strichfield, Edna Orr (later Nellie Coffman of Desert Inn fame), Mr. Donovan, and Casper Tyler. The Long Wharf—built between 1892 and 1894—was once the longest pier in the world. This rare image captures a young Edna Orr before her rise as a pioneering figure in Palm Springs hospitality.

Nellie Coffman (1867–1950), née Edna Beatrice Orr, was a pioneering hotelier who helped transform Palm Springs into a premier desert resort. After moving there in 1909 for her husband’s health, she opened a modest boarding house that grew into the famed Desert Inn. Known for her high standards and charm, “The Duchess of Palm Springs” attracted celebrities, dignitaries, and investors, shaping the city’s early identity as an upscale retreat. She managed the Inn until shortly before her death in 1950, leaving a lasting legacy in the region.

Historical Notes

Also referred to as “Port Los Angeles” during the 1890s, the Long Wharf was promoted by the Southern Pacific Railroad as the region’s future deep-water harbor. Stretching over 4,700 feet into the bay, it was the longest pier in the world at the time.

Historical Notes

The Long Wharf’s prominence was short-lived due to intense political and commercial rivalry known as the "Free Harbor Fight." Huntington and Jones used their influence to delay federal investment in San Pedro Bay, advocating instead for a breakwater and port facilities at Santa Monica. However, local business interests, led by Los Angeles Times publisher Harrison Gray Otis and U.S. Senator Stephen White, lobbied for San Pedro. In 1897, a federal commission led by Rear Admiral John Grimes Walker selected San Pedro Bay as the official site for the Port of Los Angeles, ending Santa Monica’s bid.

Historical Notes

With San Pedro’s selection and subsequent harbor improvements, shipping traffic shifted away from the Long Wharf. The wharf ceased major shipping operations by 1913, and demolition began soon after. By 1919, the tip of the pier was removed, and the remaining structure was used as a fishing pier until its complete removal in 1933. Today, no physical trace remains, but a California Historical Landmark plaque marks the site at Will Rogers State Beach in Pacific Palisades.

Historical Notes

n 1897, San Pedro Bay, now known as the Port of Los Angeles, was selected by the United States Congress to be the official port of Los Angeles (Port of Los Angeles) over Santa Monica. Still, the Long Wharf acted as the major port of call for Los Angeles until 1903. Though the final decision disappointed the city's residents, the selection allowed Santa Monica to maintain its scenic charm. The rail line down to Santa Monica Canyon was sold to the Pacific Electric Railway, and was in use from 1891 to 1933.

Click HERE to see more in Early Views of San Pedro and Wilmington.

Historical Notes

Tourists marveled at riding streetcars out over the ocean on the old freight wharf, promoted as “the only ocean voyage on wheels.” When Pacific Electric absorbed LAP in 1911, the line was operated as the Santa Monica Canyon Local or Port Los Angeles Line, but its function remained recreational rather than practical transit. Passenger service continued on a diminishing basis, with cutbacks in the 1920s as the wharf deteriorated and automobile tourism supplanted the red cars.

By the early 1930s, only a token daily shuttle remained, and the line was formally abandoned in 1933. The last remnants of the Long Wharf were demolished that same year. Though short-lived and lightly used, the line had a notable impact on regional tourism and helped shape Santa Monica’s identity as a beach resort instead of a shipping port.

Historical Notes

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a Japanese fishing village known as Maikura was established at the foot of the Long Wharf in what is now Pacific Palisades, just north of Santa Monica Canyon. The settlement took root around 1899, led by Issei (first-generation Japanese immigrants) such as Hatsuji Sano, who were drawn to the area for its rich fishing grounds and proximity to the enormous, soon-abandoned wharf built by the Southern Pacific Railroad in 1893 as part of an unsuccessful attempt to establish Port Los Angeles.

Historical Notes

Fishing was the foundation of the local economy. Japanese fishermen supplied fresh seafood to Japanese communities in Los Angeles and Santa Monica, while others opened seafood shops and related businesses inland. The Long Wharf and the village’s seaside location also drew day visitors from the city, many of whom came to fish, dine, or enjoy the beach. The mix of hard work and cultural continuity gave the village a uniquely communal and industrious character.

Historical Notes

By 1910, Maikura had grown into a small but vibrant community of about 50 residents—two-thirds Japanese and one-third Russian. As the years went on, the population swelled to nearly 300 people. Families built modest homes along the beach and up Temescal Canyon’s coastal shelf, constructing their own roads, laying down power and gas lines, and opening businesses such as small hotels and restaurants. The residents rebuilt after storms and setbacks, forming a self-sufficient, resilient community.

Historical Notes

Despite its coastal isolation, the Maikura community maintained strong cultural and social ties with other Japanese neighborhoods, especially Little Tokyo and Sawtelle. Villagers participated in religious observances, sporting events, and social gatherings in those areas. The community’s character was often compared to the better-known Japanese enclave on Terminal Island—tight-knit, industrious, and proudly self-reliant.

Historical Notes

By the early 1910s, the land had been annexed by Los Angeles County and fell under the control of developer Robert Gillis. Gillis sought to turn the coastal region into a whites-only, affluent suburb. Using the excuse of substandard sanitation infrastructure, he orchestrated the removal of the Japanese community. By 1916, the village was razed and the Long Wharf dismantled. Many former residents relocated to Terminal Island or to Santa Monica, where they shifted into farming, labor, and trades.

The Maikura fishing village was one of over 40 Japanese communities in California that ultimately vanished—many during or after World War II. Though short-lived, its legacy is significant. It stands as a testament to the contributions of early Japanese immigrants to the Los Angeles region and the broader patterns of exclusion and forced removal that shaped Southern California's urban and cultural history.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Canyon area was experiencing a land boom during the late 1880’s attracting tycoons (either actual or potential) of every industry. One such industrious man was Abbot Kinney who opened the first forestry station in the adjacent Rustic Canyon in 1887. One of his objectives was to test trees, primarily eucalyptus, as cash crops. On 247 acres of land Kinney began planting trees. Despite the success of the trees, it was clear they were not an effective cash crop and Kinney soon sold the property. Notwithstanding a devastating fire in 1904, many of the trees survived creating the plentiful and beautiful eucalyptus groves in Rustic Canyon today. A plaque was dedicated on August 18, 1971, officially designating the eucalyptus groves as a California State Historical Landmark.

Click HERE to see more California HIstorical Landmarks.

Historical Notes

Because of the construction of the nearby Long Wharf, a railroad was built right by the mouth of the Santa Monica Canyon.  The area now became accessible to hundreds of people. Traveling characters enjoyed days of croquet, horseback riding, and, of course, bathing.

Historical Notes

The increased sand on Santa Monica Beach compared to 100 years ago is largely due to human intervention, particularly through beach nourishment projects. Over the past century, efforts have been made to widen and enhance the beach to boost tourism and recreation. Key factors include the artificial widening of the beach by adding approximately 30 million cubic yards of sand, sourced from infrastructure projects and dredging operations, and the desire to make Santa Monica Beach resemble wider, flatter East Coast beaches.

In 1947, for example, nearly 14 million cubic yards of sand were removed to make way for El Segundo's Hyperion power plant. They were deposited onto Santa Monica's beaches. Another million cubic yards came a couple years later, the sand this time recovered from dredging operations along a nearby breakwater. In all, some thirty million cubic yards of sand have been dumped onto the beaches of Santa Monica and Venice. 

Historical Notes

The railroad depot seen in the above photo is still standing today.  The original 1890’s structure is the entrance to Patrick’s Roadhouse Restaurant, 106 Entrada Drive. The lunch counter and booth area of the restaurant appear to be the original fixtures as well.

Historical Notes

After San Pedro Bay was selected over the Long Wharf as the location of the new Los Angeles Harbor, the rail line down to Santa Monica Canyon was sold by Southern Pacific Railroad to the Pacific Electric Railway. The track was in use from 1891 to 1933.

Historical Notes

Adelaide Dr. and 4th house is still there. It was built in 1906 for R C Gillis as a summer house. Gillis and partners subdivided area as The Palisades and marketed it as a place to build summer houses for Los Angeles residents.

Historical Notes

Ocean Avenue starts at the residential Adelaide Drive (seen above) on the north end of Santa Monica and ends at Pico Boulevard. It is westernmost street in Santa Monica, and for most of its course it runs parallel to Palisades Park, whose bluffs overlook Pacific Coast Highway and Santa Monica State Beach.

Historical Notes

Santa Monica Canyon in the 1880s was a landscape in transition, poised on the brink of significant development. Originally part of the Mexican land grant Rancho Boca de Santa Monica, the area experienced a land boom in the late 1880s, though the first formal subdivision wouldn't be created until 1912. A pivotal moment came in 1887 with the establishment of the Old Santa Monica Forestry Station in Rustic Canyon, the nation's first experimental forestry station. This facility tested exotic trees and conducted important management studies, setting a precedent for scientific research in the area. The canyon was renowned for its natural water resources, with streams formed by moisture gathering on the hills, making the land particularly fertile. Infrastructure development was also underway, with railroad tracks laid near the canyon by 1885. This decade marked the beginning of Santa Monica Canyon's transformation from expansive ranchland to a more settled area, laying the foundation for the intensive development that would follow in subsequent years.

Historical Notes

The Long Wharf, also known as Port Los Angeles, was a major infrastructure project built by the Southern Pacific Railroad Company. Construction began in 1892 and was completed in 1894. At the time of its opening, it was the longest wharf in the world, stretching approximately 4,700 feet (1,400 meters) into Santa Monica Bay, just north of Santa Monica Canyon. The wharf served as a cargo and passenger port until 1913. It was constructed to establish Port Los Angeles, as the city lacked a natural harbor, and was a collaborative effort between Collis P. Huntington of Southern Pacific Railroad and Nevada Senator John P. Jones, who also founded Santa Monica. The Santa Monica Canyon Line, a tram line built in 1891, connected the wharf to the city, running from Ocean Avenue and Colorado Avenue through a tunnel to the beach. The Long Wharf played a vital role in the region's development by bringing lumber from Northern ports to support Southern California’s construction boom.

Historical Notes

The Long Wharf's prominence was short-lived despite its initial success. It began losing significant traffic to San Pedro after the latter was selected as the site for the Port of Los Angeles in 1897. The wharf's dismantling commenced in 1919, with its tip removed by 1920. The remaining structure served as a fishing pier until its complete removal in 1933. Today, the former site of the Long Wharf is recognized as a California Historical Landmark (site number 881) and is located in present-day Pacific Palisades at Will Rogers State Beach, preserving the memory of this once-impressive maritime structure.

Historical Notes

Tract planning for residential homes in the Santa Monica Canyon began in 1912. Santa Monica Land Companies owned by Gillis, Sherman, and C.L. Bundy promoted one expensive new tract after another. At the place Where the Mountains meet the Sea (as The Canyon was advertised), the Bundy’s built a bath house with picnic area, refreshments, and dance pavilion. It became the favorite oasis of many until it burned down in 1927.

Francis Eugene "Frank" Bundy (1870-1944), commonly known as F.E. Bundy, was part of the Bundy family that played a significant role in the development of Santa Monica, including having Bundy Drive named after them. F.E. Bundy was one of the Bundy brothers, which included G.G. Bundy, C.L. Bundy, Nathan P. Bundy, and Thomas C. Bundy. The Bundy family originally moved to Santa Monica from Ames, Iowa, where they established a home in Santa Monica Canyon. F.E. Bundy became a prominent real estate developer in Santa Monica, acquiring substantial real estate holdings through his business ventures.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Canyon Bath House, also known as Bundy Bath House, was a prominent recreational landmark in the early 20th century. Situated at the mouth of Santa Monica Canyon on the beach, it operated from at least 1915 to 1927. Built and owned by F.E. Bundy, a member of the Santa Monica Land Company, the bathhouse played a key role in promoting the area's residential development.

The Bundy Bath House offered a range of amenities, including refreshment stands, picnic areas, a dance pavilion, and changing rooms, making it a popular destination for locals and visitors. As Santa Monica Canyon developed into a recreational and residential hub, the bathhouse’s location near the Pacific Electric Railway tracks leading to the Long Wharf made it easily accessible.

Described as "the favorite oasis of many," the bathhouse was central to the growing leisure culture of the period. However, in 1927, it was destroyed by fire, marking the end of its brief but impactful existence. The area continued to evolve, and the Pacific Coast Highway was later constructed near its former site. Despite its short lifespan, the Bundy Bath House was an important part of Santa Monica Canyon’s transition from a rural landscape to a thriving residential community.

Historical Notes

In November 1919 the Pacific Electric Railway announced they were going to pull down the entire wharf.  By the middle of the next summer not a trace of it was left.

Historical Notes

Pacific Palisades was founded in 1920 by Dr. Charles Holmes Scott of the Methodist Episcopal Church, who sought permanent roots for his religious community. Scott, along with a delegation of Methodist ministers and laymen, purchased 16.6 acres of Rustic Canyon property (then-owned by scholar and widow Julia Edmond) and 11.8 acres of land adjacent to a forestry station. That same year, the Pacific Palisades Association was established to implement Scott’s plans and to further expand the community — in land and in population. January 14, 1922 was Pacific Palisades’ official “opening day.”

In 1926, the Pacific Palisades Association purchased the land that was owned by the Huntington family of New York. Both a commemorative gesture and a way to benefit from the prestige associated with the Huntington name, the area was deemed “Huntington Palisades.”

Historical Notes

Click HERE to see more early views of Santa Monica Canyon

Historical Notes

The Pacific Palisades lighthouse was built as a bathhouse with a working light in 1927. In the early 1930s the structure along with the beach was sold to Will Rogers and later the beach was given to the state of California and renamed the Will Rogers State Beach.

Historical Notes

“The Lighthouse” restaurant and bathhouse opened for business on Memorial Day, 1927. Built by the Pacific Palisades Association and designed by architect Thomas P. Barber, the bathhouse featured a second floor dining room, a wrap-around Venetian colonnade, and was large enough to accommodate 500 patrons.

Historical Notes

Although it was not a true lighthouse, the picturesque building was commonly featured in promotional photographs and materials advertising Southern California. It was also an important visual point of reference for boats navigating into Santa Monica Bay.

Historical Notes

The most distinctive feature was the 50-foot tall lighthouse tower with a functioning beacon powered by eight 500-watt lamps. The Lighthouse was a popular destination and become an iconic landmark as the Roosevelt Highway (later the PCH) opened up through Malibu in 1929, connecting all of California along a single coast highway.

Historical Notes

In 1926, the Pacific Palisades Association purchased the land that was owned by the Huntington family of New York. Both a commemorative gesture and a way to benefit from the prestige associated with the Huntington name, the area was deemed “Huntington Palisades.”

Historical Notes

The Long Wharf was the longest ocean wharf in the world at 4700 feet. It was built in 1893 by the Southern Pacific Railroad, and it was destroyed in 1920 by the Pacific Electric Railroad Co.

The Long Wharf was designated California HIstorical Landmark No. 881. Click HERE to see more California Historical Landmarks in L.A.

Historical Notes

Over the decades, as the popularity of bathhouses faded, the patronage of the Lighthouse diminished. Eventually, the building was taken over by the Will Rogers State Beach lifeguard, serving as a part of the lifeguard headquarters. By 1972, the Lighthouse structure was determined to be unsuitable for habitation and was razed.

Historical Notes

Notes from reverse of photo: Roosevelt Highway Blocked Again. Santa Monica, Calif.,--Southern California's Roosevelt Highway along the Pacific Ocean near here was the scene of another traffic-stopping earth slide from the towering beach front Palisades. The 200-foot, 30-foot deep chunk of earth slid from the backyard of actor Charles Laughton. Photo date: 8/29/44

Historical Notes

Roosevelt Highway was widened and renamed Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) along this stretch in the 1940s.

Rustic Creek, flowing through Rustic Canyon in Pacific Palisades, has a history intertwined with the area's development since the Spanish land grant era. Originally part of Rancho Boca de Santa Monica, the canyon gained prominence in 1887 when Abbot Kinney established a forestry station and planted eucalyptus trees. The early 20th century saw increased development, including the founding of Pacific Palisades in 1922 and the establishment of the Uplifters Club. Will Rogers' purchase of his ranch in Upper Rustic Canyon in 1926 further elevated the area's profile. 

Historical Notes

Will Rogers Beach, located near Chautauqua in the Pacific Palisades area, was officially named and dedicated on July 26, 1942. This occurred about seven years after the death of Will Rogers, who had owned the beachfront property in the 1920s and early 1930s. Following his death in a 1935 plane crash, his widow Betty developed a plan to gift their oceanfront land to the state of California. The beach was initially owned and operated by the State of California from its dedication in 1942 until 1975, when the County of Los Angeles took over its management. The naming of the beach was part of a larger effort to transform the Rogers' private property into a public recreational area, preserving Will Rogers' legacy and providing public access to this stretch of coastline.

Historical Notes

Today, Rustic Creek remains one of the few natural streams in developed Los Angeles, running past Will Rogers State Historic Park and into Topanga State Park. It continues to be a vital part of the local ecosystem, surrounded by a prestigious residential neighborhood known for its natural beauty and seclusion.

Highlighted in purple on the Google Earth view is the Eames Foundation, located at 203 Chautauqua Boulevard in Pacific Palisades, California. Established in 2004, the foundation preserves the Eames House—an iconic mid-20th century modernist structure designed by Charles and Ray Eames in 1949. Part of the Case Study House program, this landmark served as both their home and studio and is now recognized as a National Historic Landmark.

Historical Notes

The bluffs at Pacific Palisades above Will Rogers Beach have transformed from vertical to slanted due to a mix of natural and human influences. Eroding at an average rate of about 4 inches per year, the bluffs—composed of easily erodible materials like sand, silt, gravel, and clay—are particularly vulnerable to erosion and slumping. Significant weather events, such as heavy rains during El Niño periods, have triggered landslides, notably in 1998. Seismic activity, like the Northridge Earthquake, has also contributed to bluff collapses. Human activities may have further impacted their stability. Over time, these combined forces have reshaped the bluffs into a more stable, sloped formation, reflecting the natural evolution of coastal landscapes.

Historical Notes

In 1911, film director Thomas Ince created his Western film factory, "Inceville," which at its peak employed nearly 600 people.

Historical Notes

Ince leased 18,000 acres of land extending from the seashore up Santa Ynez Canyon and into the mountains for 7-1/2 miles. While he was building the frame-structured studio buildings, situated where Gladstone’s Restaurant is today, he also hired Miller’s 101 Ranch Wildwest Show, including many cowboys, animals and a Sioux Indian tribe, who set up their teepees on the property.

Historical Notes

Most of the cowboys, Indians and assorted workmen lived at Inceville, while the actors came from Los Angeles and other communities as needed, taking the red trolley cars to the Long Wharf at Potrero Canyon, where buckboards conveyed them to the set. Ince lived in a house that overlooked Inceville, the location of Marquez Knolls today.

Historical Notes

By 1916, Ince was supervising eight directors and releasing one five-reel picture (about 50-minute films) each week at an average cost of $40,000. His film ‘Civilization,’ which employed over 25,000 extras, was by far his most ambitious endeavor. The set for the mythical city stood alone on the barren hills, where Marquez Elementary School is today. It was built by 60 carpenters over a period of three months at a cost of $80,000 and was used for only 100 feet of film.

Historical Notes

Incville's cost continued to rise as moviegoers enjoyed the more expensive feature films, which used five reels or more.  Ince, through his alliance with Triangle, a production company founded by D. W. Griffith and Mark Sennett, built a new studio in Culver City to use for indoor movies, while retaining Inceville for outdoor locations and Westerns.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Bath House was replaced by the North Beach Bath House in 1898.

Two piers are seen in the above view. The lower pier is the remains of the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad Wharf. The pier further north is the North Beach Pier, built in 1898 (same year as the North Beach Bath House).

Historical Notes

The North Beach Pier was built adjacent to the North Beach Bath House in 1898. At 200 feet long, it was a place where guests of the North Beach Bath House could stroll.

Historical Notes

The remains of the 1875-built Los Angeles & Independence Railroad Wharf is further south closer to the Arcadia Hotel.

Historical Notes

The pipeline seen above is some form of discharge pipe that came out of the North Beach Bathhouse.

Historical Notes

Santa Monica Electric and Power Company built a power house on the beach in the late 1890s.

North Beach Bath House

Santa Monica's Grand Victorian Resort on the Sand (1894 to 1911)

When the North Beach Bath House opened on June 9, 1894, it instantly became the social center of Santa Monica's beach life. Senator John P. Jones, one of the city's co-founders, had invested $50,000 to build it, hiring architect Sumner P. Hunt, who would later design the Southwest Museum in Los Angeles, to create what the Los Angeles Times described as the largest and finest structure of its kind on the Pacific Coast.

Stretching 440 feet along the sand, the complex was far more than a place to change clothes. It offered two large heated saltwater plunges, 300 dressing rooms, an ornate parlor, a ballroom, a rooftop garden and observation deck, a bowling pavilion, a vaudeville auditorium added in 1901, and the Pavilion Restaurant with three separate dining rooms. A twenty foot wide boardwalk connected the bath house to the nearby Arcadia Hotel and ran for several miles along the surf, rivaling the famous boardwalk at Atlantic City. Admission was just twenty five cents.

The bath house was the fifth facility to open along Santa Monica's North Beach, the first having been built by Michael Duffy back in 1876. It served the community for sixteen years before being torn down in 1911. The photographs below document the bath house and its surrounding beach from its earliest years through the height of its popularity.

Historical Notes

This view from around 1900 shows the full extent of the North Beach Bath House complex from the beach side. The long building at far left housed the heated saltwater plunge, while the taller structure with two towers to the right was the main bath house containing the dressing rooms, parlor, ballroom, and restaurant. The pipe running along the sand at left is particularly interesting. In 1896, a contract was awarded to lay pipe from the bath house to two large 30,000 gallon tanks constructed on the bluffs above, supplying saltwater not only to the indoor plunge but also to water the streets and keep the dust down in the growing town above.

The 99 Steps bridge descending from the Palisades in the distance connects this scene directly to the Linda Vista Park section of your site, reminding visitors that the bluffs and the beach were linked from the earliest days of the resort. The mix of fully clothed visitors and bathers in the water captures the dual nature of North Beach as both a social promenade and a working resort, where the simple act of entering the ocean required a trip through the bath house and a change of clothes.

Historical Notes

Eckert and Hopf's Restaurant operated as a popular dining establishment adjacent to the North Beach Bath House, catering to the steady flow of visitors who arrived by Pacific Electric trolley and early automobile from Los Angeles. The flags flying from every tower of both buildings suggest a holiday or special event, likely one of the many summer festivals and beach days that regularly drew thousands of visitors to North Beach in the 1890s. The remains of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad Wharf visible in the distance marked what had been Santa Monica's first bid for major port status, before San Pedro was selected as the region's official harbor.

The grand structure visible in the background is the Arcadia Hotel, built in 1887 by Santa Monica co-founder Arcadia Bandini de Baker. One of the finest resort hotels in Southern California, it hosted presidents and dignitaries along its ocean facing verandas and was considered the social crown jewel of early Santa Monica. Like the bath house beside it, the Arcadia Hotel had a relatively short life. It was demolished in 1909, just two years before the bath house itself came down, closing the chapter on North Beach as the city's premier resort district.

Historical Notes

The umbrellas carried by nearly every visitor in this 1898 view are a telling detail. In the late Victorian era, a suntan was considered undesirable, associated with outdoor labor rather than leisure, and fashionable visitors to the beach took great care to protect their skin from the sun. The broad twenty foot boardwalk running in front of the bath house was the social heart of North Beach, a place to promenade, be seen, and enjoy the sea air without necessarily setting foot on the sand or in the water.

The Bowling Pavilion was one of the bath house's most popular secondary attractions, offering an indoor recreation option for visitors who preferred not to swim. The North Beach Bath House Pier, partially visible at lower right, extended into the ocean and gave bathers direct access to the surf, while the boardwalk above served as Santa Monica's answer to the famous promenades of Atlantic City and Long Beach.

Historical Notes

This 1901 interior view captures the plunge in full use on a busy day. The pool measured 50 by 150 feet and ranged from three to nine feet in depth, making the "Deep Water" sign overhead a genuine safety warning rather than a decorative touch. The heated saltwater was piped directly from the ocean and warmed to a comfortable temperature, making the plunge usable year round regardless of the weather outside. Children playing in the shallower sections and adults swimming in the deeper end reflect how deliberately the bath house was designed to serve the entire family.

The year 1901 also marked the addition of the new vaudeville auditorium to the complex, built at a cost of $7,000 and opened first by the newly organized YMCA before being taken over by a traveling vaudeville company. With the plunge, the restaurant, the bowling pavilion, and now a performance venue all under one roof, the North Beach Bath House had grown into one of the most complete resort facilities anywhere on the California coast.

Historical Notes

This elevated view from the end of the pier puts the bath house complex in its full coastal context. The main bath house building sits at center with the Camera Obscura and Bowling Pavilion clearly visible to the right, illustrating how tightly packed the resort's attractions were along this short stretch of sand. From this vantage point the scale of the operation is clear. The complex occupied nearly the entire width of the beach between the bluffs and the ocean, leaving just enough room for the boardwalk and open sand that visitors needed to reach the surf.

The Camera Obscura, installed around 1899 by Robert F. Jones, nephew of Senator John P. Jones, quickly became one of the bath house's most talked about features. For ten cents, visitors entered the darkened chamber where a rotating lens and mirror projected a live 360 degree view of the surrounding beach, ocean, and passing ships onto a circular table below, giving them a moving panorama of the entire Santa Monica shoreline without stepping outside.

Historical Notes

The signs visible on the bath house facade in this photograph serve as a directory of everything the complex had to offer. "Bathing Suits" indicates that rental costumes were available for visitors who arrived without their own, a common service at bath houses of this era when wool bathing costumes were expensive and most visitors did not own one. The sign for the Camera Obscura and the Bowling Pavilion confirm that by 1900 the bath house had grown well beyond its original purpose as a changing facility into a full resort attraction in its own right.

The term "casino" in the caption refers not to a gambling establishment but to the broader Victorian usage of the word, meaning a public gathering place for entertainment and socializing. By this definition, the North Beach Bath House was very much a casino in the truest sense, a place where the community came together for music, dining, sport, and the simple pleasure of a day by the sea.

Historical Notes

This view from around 1898 captures North Beach at what may have been the height of its popularity. The crowds filling the sand in front of the bath house reflect the enormous appetite for seaside recreation that had developed in Los Angeles during the 1880s and 1890s, driven largely by the arrival of transcontinental railroad service and the dramatic drop in fares that followed the rate wars of 1886. Visitors who had once faced a long overland journey to reach the California coast could now travel from downtown Los Angeles to Santa Monica for a few cents on the Pacific Electric.

The Camera Obscura, visible in the background, had been installed just the year before and was already drawing curious visitors to its darkened chamber. Within a decade, however, the opening of Venice of America just to the south in 1905 would begin drawing crowds away from North Beach, and the bath house itself would close by 1910 and be demolished the following year, ending a sixteen year run as the finest resort facility on the Southern California coast.

Camera Obscura

Santa Monica's Most Beloved Optical Novelty (1898 to Present)

In 1898, Santa Monica mayor Robert F. Jones, nephew of city co founder Senator John P. Jones, built a Camera Obscura on the beach near the North Beach Bath House. Jones had experimented with the devices since boyhood, and as mayor he saw it as both a personal fascination and a clever attraction that could draw visitors to the young seaside city. Admission was ten cents, and the Los Angeles Herald advertised it for months under the headline “There Is Fun at Santa Monica.”

The principle behind the Camera Obscura is ancient. Aristotle first described how a small opening in a darkened space could project an inverted image of the outside world onto an interior surface. In 1600 the German astronomer Johannes Kepler gave the phenomenon its Latin name, meaning “dark chamber.” What Robert Jones constructed in Santa Monica was a revolving version of this device, housed in a small wooden turret that projected a full 360 degree live view of the surrounding beach, ocean, and passing ships onto a circular table inside a darkened room. Jones proudly described it as one of the most perfect instruments of its kind.

The Camera Obscura has had a remarkable life spanning more than 125 years. From its original location on the beach, it moved briefly to Westlake Park in Los Angeles in 1898, returned to Santa Monica in 1899, was purchased by the city in 1910 and relocated to Linda Vista Park, and in 1955 was installed in a purpose built mid century modern structure at 1450 Ocean Avenue designed by architect Weldon J. Fulton. It still operates today as part of the Camera Obscura Art Lab and remains one of only a handful of revolving Camera Obscuras still functioning anywhere in the world.

Historical Notes

This early photograph shows the Camera Obscura in its original form, a small wooden turret standing on the sand near the North Beach Bath House. Robert F. Jones constructed the device in 1898 during his tenure as mayor, combining his lifelong fascination with optical instruments with the city’s growing effort to attract visitors to Santa Monica’s expanding seaside resort.

Visitors climbed a wooden stairway, paid ten cents, and entered a completely dark chamber where a rotating mirror and lens projected a live panoramic image of the surrounding beach and ocean onto a circular viewing disc below. The effect was surprisingly vivid. Waves rolled, people moved along the shore, and ships passed slowly across the horizon, all appearing silently on the white table inside the dark room.

Because the operator spent hours scanning the shoreline through the lens, the Camera Obscura occasionally served an unexpected secondary purpose. From this elevated vantage point attendants could observe swimmers and activity along the beach, functioning at times as informal lookouts for lifeguards and police.

Historical Notes

By around 1900 the Camera Obscura had been given a new wooden structure after its brief relocation to Westlake Park in Los Angeles and its return to Santa Monica in 1899. The attendant collecting the admission fee in this photograph was an employee of the North Beach Bath House, which had incorporated the Camera Obscura as one of its featured attractions. According to the Los Angeles Times, it was a rule of the establishment that every employee be a good swimmer, and the Camera Obscura operator, perched above the beach with a commanding view of the water, was among the best positioned to spot trouble in the surf below.

Ten cents was a modest sum even by the standards of 1900, and the Camera Obscura drew several hundred visitors on busy days, making it one of the most consistently popular attractions at North Beach. The image it projected onto the viewing disc inside was not a still photograph but a live, moving, silent picture of everything happening outside, an experience that must have felt genuinely astonishing to visitors who had never seen anything like it.

Historical Notes

In 1907, Robert F. Jones donated the Camera Obscura to the city of Santa Monica, and it was moved from the beach up to Linda Vista Park on the bluffs above, near the foot of Broadway. The city hoped the device would attract visitors to the park the same way it had drawn crowds to North Beach, and the elevated location proved to be an even better vantage point. From the top of the Palisades, the Camera Obscura's rotating lens could capture sweeping views stretching from the mountains to the north all the way south to the developing beach communities of Ocean Park and Venice.

The move to the bluffs also coincided with the gradual decline of the North Beach Bath House, which would close in 1910 and be demolished the following year. As the old resort district faded, the Camera Obscura carried on above it, outlasting the boardwalk, the bath house, and the Long Wharf, all of which had defined the Santa Monica shoreline at the turn of the century.

Historical Notes

By the mid-1920s the Camera Obscura had become a fixed landmark of Palisades Park, appearing regularly on postcards that promoted Santa Monica as a scenic destination. The La Monica Ballroom, visible to the left in this view, had just opened in 1924 as one of the largest dance halls built over the ocean anywhere in the country, bringing a new generation of visitors to the bluff top park. The Camera Obscura's small wooden structure, modest by comparison, sat quietly nearby, offering a very different kind of spectacle, one that required patience, darkness, and a willingness to simply watch the world go by in silence.

The postcard format of this image reflects how thoroughly the Camera Obscura had entered the public imagination as a symbol of Santa Monica. It appeared in promotional materials alongside the pier, the ballroom, and Palisades Park itself, recognized as one of the distinctive experiences the city offered that visitors could not find anywhere else.

Historical Notes

By around 1920 the park had been known as Palisades Park for five years, having shed its earlier name of Linda Vista Park in 1915 to reflect the dramatic coastal cliffs that define the bluff top landscape. The Camera Obscura's modest wooden structure fits naturally into the informal, rustic character of the park during these years, when twisted branch fencing, winding paths, and simple wooden shelters gave the bluff top promenade its distinctive character.

The device continued drawing visitors steadily through the 1920s and into the mid-century, when a growing need for a permanent home led the city to commission architect Weldon J. Fulton to design a purpose built structure. In November 1955, the Camera Obscura was installed in Fulton's new building at 1450 Ocean Avenue, where it has remained ever since, one of only a handful of revolving Camera Obscuras still operating anywhere in the world, and one of the oldest continuously operating public attraction in Santa Monica's history.

Historical Notes

In 1895, Abbot Kinney acquired the deed to the coastal strip previously purchased by W.D. Vawter and named the area Ocean Park. It became his first amusement park and residential project. A race track and golf course were built on the Ocean Park Casino. After a falling out with his partners he focused on the south end of the property, which he made into Venice of America.

Click HERE to see more in Early Southern California Amusement Parks.

Historical Notes

Formerly known as Decoration Day, Memorial Day originated after the American Civil War to commemorate the Union and Confederate soldiers who died in the Civil War. By the 20th century, Memorial Day had been extended to honor all Americans who have died while in the military service.*^

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles Pacific Railway was built by Eli Clark and Moses H. Sherman, for whom Clark Drive, Shermanton (now West Hollywood), and Sherman Avenue (now Santa Monica Boulevard) were first named. They were early pioneers of interurban electric railways that laid track from downtown to the sea. Their Los Angeles to Santa Monica line opened on April 1, 1896 to an excited beach crowd in Santa Monica.*#

Historical Notes

Santa Monica Airport was originally called "Clover Field" after World War I aviator Lieutenant Greayer "Grubby" Clover, and was home of the Douglas Aircraft company. The first circumnavigation of the world by air took off from Clover Field on St. Patrick's Day, March 17, 1942. At one point, it was the site of the Army's 40th Division Aviation, and became a Distribution Center after World War II.*

Historical Notes

Edwin J. Vawter, was from a pioneering Santa Monica family. His father established Santa Monica's first general store and First National Bank. A 1901 guidebook (Wilson's Illustrated and Descriptive Souvenir and Guide to Los Angeles and Near-by Towns) described the carnation fields thus: "One of the most beautiful attractions [in Ocean Park] is the carnation field of Mr. E.J. Vawter. It is situated on a ridge overlooking the grand old Pacific. Here carnations are in full bloom summer and winter."

It was probably helpful that Mr. Vawter was also in charge of the city water company.

Historical Notes

In 1891, Abott Kinney and (silent partner) Francis G. Ryan purchased a 1-1/2 mile long, narrow strip of sand dunes along the shore line south of Santa Monica extending from Strand Street to Brooks Avenue from a Captain Hutchinson.  To encourage building, water was brought in, the tract was sewered, board walks laid, and lots leased to persons desiring to put up small cottages.

That same year, Kinney & Ryan (Ocean Park Development Company) built a pier, golf course, horse-racing track, boardwalk and other resort amenities on the northernmost edge of their holdings. They would also give 12 acres to the Santa Fe Railroad so they would extend their Inglewood line north to Kinney and Ryan’s resort.

In 1893, Kinney and Ryan began selling small 25 x 100 foot beach lots priced at $100 and featured piped water.  Tents were erected on the unsold lots and were available to campers for summer rental. Frederick Rindge, who was president of the Los Angeles YMCA, founds a YMCA summer camp on 5 acres of land located on 250ft beach front near Hill St., donated by Kinney who hopes that the YMCA camp will attract people to his beach resort.*

Historical Notes

Kinney and Ryan’s original resort consisted of 150 beach cottages, and a small commercial district along Pier Avenue. A building boom added 40 new beach cottages, several stores, and Kinney’s new 40 acre Ocean Park race course and golf links. The resort would be subdivided and sold to more developers and by 1902, there were over 700 cottages in Ocean Park.*

Historical Notes

In 1898, Ryan died and his widow married Thomas Dudley of Santa Monica who becomes Kinney's new partner.

After 1904, Kinney moved his attention to his Venice of America development (also called Ocean Park at the time) , south of the Santa Monica city boundary.

The history of Venice and Ocean Park are intertwinned. From 1905 to 1925, Ocean Park was developed by people such as Fraser, Merritt Jones, Hart, Hollister and Wadsworth.

Historical Notes

Originally known as “Linda Vista Park,” Palisades Park was the first officially-designated public open space in Santa Monica. The land was donated to the City by Santa Monica's founder, Senator John P. Jones, in 1892.

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad Wharf was in use between 1875 and 1879, at which time it was purchased by the Southern Pacific Railroad company and partially dismantled. It stood just south of the present location of the Santa Monica Pier at the foot of Colorado Avenue.

Historical Notes

Most of the beach shacks would be removed with the laying of railroad tracks along the beach by Southern Pacific in 1892.

The “99 Steps”

Early Beach Access Beneath the Santa Monica Palisades

The Staircase That Watched a City Grow

In 1875, the same year Santa Monica was founded, a wooden staircase was built at the foot of Arizona Avenue. Its purpose was simple: to solve the problem of the coastal bluffs. Those cliffs rose sixty-five feet above the beach and made reaching the shoreline a real challenge for residents and visitors alike. The staircase, soon called the 99 Steps, became the town's first direct pedestrian route from the mesa above down to the sand below. For more than fifty years it served as the main connection between the growing city and the ocean it was built around.

The 99 Steps are worth studying because of how much changed around them while they kept standing. In the early 1890s, railroad tracks were laid directly beneath the staircase. Freight trains carrying cargo to a massive ocean wharf then passed under the same wooden landings where bathers had been pausing to enjoy the view. A celebrated resort hotel rose a short walk to the south. The dirt road at the base of the bluffs slowly became one of the most recognized coastal highways in the country. Through all of it, the steps stayed open and kept carrying visitors to the beach, until the highway finally grew too wide and too busy for a wooden staircase to safely cross.

The photographs in this section follow the 99 Steps through each of those changes. They begin with the original wooden staircase in the 1880s and end with the pedestrian bridge that stands at the same location today. Each image shows the steps at a different point in time. The world around them shifts in nearly every photograph, but the route from the bluff to the beach never moves.

1886 | The Original 99 Steps

Historical Notes

This is one of the earliest surviving photographs of the steps, taken eleven years after they opened. Look at what it actually shows: a man in a bathing suit at the base, women and children ranged along the upper railings, nobody in a particular hurry. The 99 Steps were not just a way to get to the beach. They were a place to be. People paused on the landings to watch the surf, talk, and take in the view that spread out below them across the full sweep of Santa Monica Bay.

The McKinnie sign is worth a second look. Fred McKinnie was a local pharmacist who understood something simple: this staircase was the most-traveled ground in town. Every person heading to the beach passed this spot. In an era before roadside billboards, the top of the 99 Steps was the best advertising location in Santa Monica. Santa Monica itself was only eleven years old when this photograph was taken, founded by Senator John P. Jones and Colonel Robert S. Baker with a land auction in July 1875. The bluffs that required the staircase were the same bluffs that gave their new city its dramatic silhouette against the Pacific sky.

Whether the staircase ever had exactly 99 steps is a question the historical record does not fully answer. The name stuck as a popular nickname through every modification and rebuilding. The current Arizona Avenue crossing has approximately 115 steps — suggesting the count grew over time as the structure was expanded to bridge an ever-wider corridor of road and rail below. The name, however, never changed.

Historical Notes

The quiet in this image is about to end. Those two small wooden buildings near the base of the steps are the first hint of the commercial shoreline beginning to form below the bluffs. But the bigger change is invisible here: the Southern Pacific Railroad was already surveying the narrow strip of land at the bottom of these steps, preparing to lay tracks straight through it. Within a year or two, freight trains would be passing directly beneath the wooden landings visible in this photograph. The 99 Steps, built for a sleepy beach town, were about to become a pedestrian bridge over one of the busiest rail corridors on the Southern California coast.

The Railroad Era, 1891–1913

ca. 1898 | Railroad Tracks Below the Steps

Historical Notes

Few photographs in this collection are as striking as this one. The 99 Steps now span an active freight railroad. The staircase was modified in the early 1890s to let trains pass beneath while pedestrians continued above, and the two systems coexisted for several decades without incident. The Long Wharf in the distance opened in 1894 as the longest wooden pier in the world at approximately 4,700 feet. Ships from Pacific ports unloaded onto waiting Southern Pacific cars, which then rolled south beneath these steps to Los Angeles. A visitor stepping off the last riser in 1898 would have landed directly beside moving freight cars before crossing to the beach.

Historical Notes

In this single frame you can see almost every form of transportation available in Southern California in 1898: a wooden staircase, a working railroad, a dirt road, and in the distance a pier long enough to dock oceangoing ships. The railroad was here because of the Free Harbor Fight, a national political battle over whether Santa Monica Bay or San Pedro Bay would become the official port of Los Angeles. Senator Jones backed Santa Monica. When Congress chose San Pedro in 1897, it was essentially over. Shipping traffic at the Long Wharf began to fall. The wharf closed in 1913. But Beach Road, visible running beside the tracks, outlasted the railroad entirely, eventually widening into Pacific Coast Highway. The 99 Steps crossed all of it without pause.

Historical Notes

This photograph was taken from a point near the 99 Steps, looking south down the coastline, which means the staircase itself is behind the camera and out of frame. What the image gives us instead is the world the steps connected to. The railroad tracks pressed against the palisade base carried the trains that passed directly beneath the 99 Steps before continuing south along this very stretch of shoreline. The Arcadia Hotel visible in the middle distance opened on January 24, 1887. Named for city co-founder Arcadia Bandini de Baker, who donated the blufftop land above the steps to the city as a public park in 1892, the hotel sat just far enough south that guests who wanted to climb the palisades would have walked north along this beach to reach the staircase.

What remains of the original Los Angeles and Independence Railroad Wharf is visible at right, reduced by 1893 to little more than pilings in the water. Senator Jones had built it in 1875, the same founding year as the 99 Steps, to bring commerce to his new city by sea. It did not last. By the time this photograph was taken, the Southern Pacific Long Wharf — approximately 4,700 feet of new timber stretching into the bay just north of here — had already replaced it as the working pier of Santa Monica. What this image captures, then, is a city mid-transformation: the old wharf fading, the new one risen, and the 99 Steps still standing above it all.

Historical Notes

The steps are just out of frame to the right. Anyone on this train looking up would have seen visitors descending toward the beach, exactly as they had been doing since 1875.

The park above is Linda Vista Park, established this same year when Senator Jones and Arcadia Bandini de Baker donated the blufftop land to the city. Jones was known to walk his dogs here each evening to watch the sunset. The view from the top of the steps, looking out over the full arc of Santa Monica Bay, was among the finest on the California coast. The park was renamed Palisades Park in 1915 and remains one of the great public promenades in Southern California. A bronze bust of Arcadia Bandini de Baker stands in its rose garden today, placed there in 1987.

From here, everything lines up. The steps. The railroad. The dirt road. The hotel. The ocean. This one view contains the entire argument for why the 99 Steps matter: they connected the top of this bluff to the bottom of it, and at the bottom was the whole world of early Santa Monica.

The political battle over the harbor was still unsettled when this photograph was taken. Had Congress chosen Santa Monica Bay, the narrow strip of land visible below these bluffs would have become one of the most industrial stretches of coastline in the American West. The 1897 decision to build the port at San Pedro instead preserved Santa Monica as a beach town. Everything in the modern photographs of this same location follows from that choice, and the 99 Steps carried visitors to that shoreline through every chapter of what came next.

Forty years old, and still the original structure. The railroad beneath the steps stopped carrying freight two years before this photograph was taken. Electric streetcars still ran the beach road below, and would until 1933. Santa Monica's population was growing fast, and the crowds on these steps were far larger than anything Jones and Baker had imagined when they built this simple wooden staircase in their brand-new city. Nothing about the structure itself had changed. Everything around it had.

The beach economy visible at the base of the steps reflects how thoroughly the shoreline had been commercialized by the 1920s. Refreshment stands, changing rooms, and shops lined the strip between road and water. But look at the road itself, running beneath the staircase. Automobile traffic was growing fast along the coast, and a wooden staircase crossing an active roadway at ground level was becoming a genuine danger. The end was coming. The 99 Steps that had stood since Santa Monica's founding year would soon be replaced by concrete and steel.

Historical Notes

The wooden staircase is gone, but the route has not moved. The new concrete bridge sits at the same point on the bluff where the original 99 Steps were built in 1875, and it still carries pedestrians from Palisades Park down to the beach along the same path. Roosevelt Highway, dedicated on June 26, 1929, was part of an ambitious plan for a continuous paved road down the entire western coast of the Americas. The increasing width and traffic of the road had made the old wooden structure unsafe, and the concrete bridge crossing visible here was the answer. The highway eventually became Pacific Coast Highway. The crossing built on the bones of the 99 Steps continues to serve that role today.

Historical Notes

The earlier concrete bridge was already overwhelmed. Santa Monica's population had passed thirty thousand, and summer weekends brought tens of thousands more from across the Los Angeles region. The 1935 structure was built to handle that scale, and it established the design that functions at this location today. Worth saying plainly: every version of this crossing, from the wooden staircase of 1875 to the bridge under construction in this photograph, has stood at the same point on the bluff at the foot of Arizona Avenue. The route to the beach has outlasted the railroad, the resort hotel, the wharf, and two separate staircase structures. It is, in that sense, the most durable thing Santa Monica ever built.

From directly above, the logic of the site becomes undeniable. The bluffs that made a staircase necessary in 1875 are still there, unchanged. The bridge crosses Pacific Coast Highway at the exact point where the wooden steps once descended to railroad tracks and a dirt road. The beach itself is a different story: sand replenishment projects over the past century have added roughly thirty million cubic yards of material to the shores of Santa Monica and Venice, transforming the narrow historic shoreline into the broad recreational beach visible here. The steps, in every form they have taken, have always pointed to this edge of the continent.

The railroad is gone. The highway is four lanes. The beach is twice as wide. And yet anyone standing at the top of the Arizona Avenue crossing today is standing exactly where every visitor to the 99 Steps has stood since 1875: at the edge of the bluff, looking down toward the same Pacific Ocean, about to take the same route to the water.

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad Wharf in the distance of the 1890 image was built by Senator Jones in 1875, the same year as the 99 Steps. They were founding-year projects built side by side: a staircase to bring people down to the beach, a wharf to bring commerce in from the sea. The wharf is buried under a hundred years of sand and history. The staircase, in everything but its original wood, is still there. Every day, people who have never heard of the 99 Steps cross the Arizona Avenue bridge and walk down to the beach without a second thought. They are following a path that has been in continuous use for one hundred and fifty years.

The 99 Steps were never a landmark in the way the Arcadia Hotel or the Long Wharf were. Nobody came to Santa Monica to see a staircase. They came to see the ocean, and the steps were simply the way down. That plainness is exactly what makes them worth remembering. While hotels were built and torn down, while railroads arrived and fell silent, while highways were cut through ranchland and renamed, this single route from the bluff to the beach kept going. It still does.

Arriving in Santa Monica

By the end of the nineteenth century, Santa Monica had become one of Southern California's most popular seaside destinations. Much of that success depended on the railroad. Excursion trains from Los Angeles regularly brought visitors to the coast, turning what had once been a quiet shoreline into a busy resort town. A trip that once required hours by wagon could now be made in less than an hour by rail.

Most visitors arrived by train at the depot near the beach, then continued their journey on foot, by carriage, or by local streetcar. From the observation tower of the Arcadia Hotel, visitors could watch trains pull into the station while crowds moved toward the beach below the bluffs. The hotel itself, opened in 1887 and named in honor of Arcadia Bandini de Stearns Baker, a prominent California landowner, quickly became the social center of the young resort city. Rising 136 feet above beach level, its tower offered guests one of the finest panoramic views on the Southern California coast.

The photographs shown here were taken from the Arcadia Hotel observation tower and capture a lively moment around the turn of the twentieth century. Southern Pacific excursion trains stand beside the depot while horse-drawn carriages and a trolley wait to carry passengers through town. Within a few years Santa Monica would grow rapidly, but the railroad remained the primary route through which most visitors first experienced the city and its beaches.

Historical Notes

From the tower of the Arcadia Hotel, guests could look out over the Santa Monica depot and watch excursion trains arrive throughout the day from Los Angeles. The railroad below was the former Los Angeles and Independence line, which had opened in 1875 to connect Santa Monica with downtown Los Angeles. After the Southern Pacific acquired the line a few years later, it became the primary route used by excursion trains carrying visitors to the beach.

Scenes like this were common on weekends and holidays when large numbers of passengers arrived from the city. Once the trains stopped at the depot, travelers continued toward the beach on foot, by carriage, or by local trolley. The mixture of steam locomotives, horse drawn vehicles, and early electric transit seen here reflects a moment when several forms of transportation shared the same streets in the growing seaside resort.

Historical Notes

This later view from the Arcadia Hotel tower shows how quickly the area around the Santa Monica depot was changing at the start of the twentieth century. Buildings near the station had expanded and trees had been planted around the depot grounds, giving the district a more developed appearance than in the earlier photograph.

At the time Southern Pacific was also considering Santa Monica as a potential commercial harbor. In 1893 the railroad built a large wharf at the north end of the city that briefly served as the Port of Los Angeles. When Congress selected San Pedro Bay in 1897 as the region's principal harbor, Santa Monica remained primarily a seaside resort. Excursion trains like those seen here continued bringing visitors to the coast, helping sustain the town's growing tourism economy.

Beach Views

Historical Notes

The Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary had arrived in Santa Monica in July 1899. They opened the Academy of the Holy Names on September 4 of that year in a small frame building on Fourth Street and Arizona. An intense fund-raising drive was launched immediately and a more substantial Academy building was erected in 1900 at Third and Arizona.

Historical Notes

By 1899 there were two banks in the City of Santa Monica: Bank of Santa Monica located at Third Street and Oregon Avenue (now Santa Monica Blvd.) and Commercial Co's Bank at 219 Third Street. By the late 1920s there were thirteen financial institutions, including multiple branches.

Historical Notes

The 1st Santa Monica Public Library was located at Third Street and Santa Monica Blvd. on the second floor of the Bank of Santa Monica.

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles Pacific Railroad, founded by Moses Sherman and his brother-in-law Eli Clark, operated a peak network of 180 miles of track in the western parts of Los Angeles County. Its routes connected Pasadena to Santa Monica and extended along the coast to Redondo Beach.

The Pacific Electric Railway served Santa Monica from 1911 to 1953. It acquired the Santa Monica Air Line during the 1911 "Great Merger," when Southern Pacific took over Henry Huntington's railway holdings.

Pacific Electric also continued the popular Balloon Route excursion, originally launched in 1901 by the Los Angeles Pacific Railroad. After taking over LAP's operations in 1911, Pacific Electric maintained the Balloon Route as one of its signature attractions.

Historical Notes

Pacific Electric trolleys played a crucial role in Santa Monica's history, connecting the coastal city to downtown Los Angeles and other parts of Southern California. The Santa Monica Air Line, established in 1908, was a key component of this transportation network, providing electric passenger service along a 16.88-mile route with 15 stations. As part of the world's largest trolley system by the 1920s, the line contributed significantly to Southern California tourism, urban development, and economic growth. It allowed residents to live in coastal areas while working in the city center and influenced the gridded street layout of many communities. Despite its initial popularity, the Santa Monica Air Line faced challenges, with service reduced to rush hours by 1924 and passenger service ending in 1953.

Historical Notes

Moses Sherman and Eli Clark introduced several innovations to trolley operations in the Los Angeles area. Among the most popular was the scenic Balloon Route Trolley Trip, celebrated as the most famous streetcar excursion in the West. Few tourists visiting Los Angeles skipped a ride on the Balloon Route, named for the loop-shaped course the trolleys followed.

The excursion featured up to 18 cars daily, departing from downtown Los Angeles and traveling through Hollywood, Sawtelle, Santa Monica, and beach cities like Venice, Playa del Rey, and Redondo Beach. The route then returned downtown via the Palms area.

Historical Notes

The Balloon Route Trolley trip was the featured route of the Los Angeles Pacific, opened in September 1901. The line ran from downtown LA through Hollywood, Santa Monica, Venice Beach, Redondo Beach and back to L.A. via Culver City. The lines stopped at beach resorts and included free entrance to some en-route stops attractions along the way, including: Sunset Boulevard, studio of painter Paul de Longpré, bean fields of Morocco in Beverly Hills, Sawtelle Veterans Home and Old oldiers’ Home in Sawtelle, Long Wharf, Camera Obscura at Santa Monica, Playa del Rey Pavilion for a fish dinner, Redondo's Moonstone Beach, Venice, and Palms - Culver City.

Historical Notes

Passengers enjoyed picturesque views of the city and coastline from the comfort of parlor cars. The trip featured stops at notable attractions such as Paul de Longpre's house, the Soldiers’ Home in Sawtelle, and Santa Monica's Long Wharf, offering a delightful experience for both locals and visitors.

Historical Notes

Initially developed by land promoters Moses Sherman and Eli Clark in 1901, the Balloon Route flourished under the management of Charles M. Pierce, who effectively marketed it as "the only ocean voyage on wheels." At its peak, the route attracted an average of 10,000 riders per month during the tourist season. However, its popularity waned after 1911 when a major railway merger transferred ownership to Southern Pacific, leading to neglect and ultimately the decline of this once-thriving trolley service.

Historical Notes

One of Santa Monica’s natural wonders was the Arch Rock.  It was so wide that during low tide, horse-drawn wagons could pass through its opening.  It was located on what is now Pacific Coast Highway just south of Topanga Cyn Blvd.

In the early 1890s, a primitive wagon road between Santa Monica and Malibu passed directly through the stony structure.*#*

Historical Notes

With improved access, the Arch Rock became a popular destination among excursion parties and day-trippers.*#*

Historical Notes

The old stage road to San Francisco (later Pacific Coast Highway) passed under the Arch Rock on Santa Monica Beach.* 

Historical Notes

For many nineteenth-century tourists, the Santa Monica Arch Rock was the place to see. It became the defining image of the Southern California coast.*#

Historical Notes

On the morning of March 24, 1906, the bridge that once spanned the arch's two columns was found crumbled on the ground. Initial reports blamed a rainstorm, but rumors later circulated that work crews constructing a railroad to Ventura had blasted the rock, performing their nefarious deed under the cover of darkness because of public affection for the landmark. In turns out that the railroad was never completed, but some of the grading work was later incorporated into the coast highway.*#*

Historical Notes

Today, Mastro's Ocean Club Restaurant (18412 E. Pacific Coast Hwy) is located where the picturesque Arch Rock once stood.*

Historical Notes

Less than a mile down the coast, Castle Rock survived Arch Rock by several decades. Rising some fifty feet from a sandy beach, the promontory also became a cherished local landmark. In some ways, it functioned as a replacement for Arch Rock, with tourists routinely picnicking on the beach nearby.*

Historical Notes

Picture-postcards romantically described Haystack Rock and the Family Group as the place "where the mountains meet the sea". *#*

Historical Notes

Roosevelt Highway was improved in 1929-30 and officially named Coast Highway at that time.  The Highway 1 designation came about in 1939*^

Historical Notes

Castle and Haystack Rocks appeared as a backdrop in numerous films, and in 1945 Marilyn Monroe posed in front of Castle Rock in one of her first photo shoots.*

Historical Notes

Castle Rock used to stand beside the Roosevelt Highway at the water's edge near the present-day location of the Getty Center Villa. Castle Rock was demolished in 1945 in order to expand the highway, renamed the Pacific Coast Highway.

Historical Notes

Castle Rock used to stand beside the Roosevelt Highway at the water's edge near the present-day location of the Getty Center Villa and Villa de Leone. Castle Rock was demolished in 1945 in order to expand the highway, renamed the Pacific Coast Highway (see next photo).

Historical Notes

Named after its original builder, Austrian native Leon Kauffman, the Villa Leon was the result of a longstanding promise Kauffman had made to his wife Clemence that, if he ever had the money, he would build for her a dream castle by the sea. A fortune made in the wool processing business in California during the First World War allowed Kauffman to make good on his promise and, after purchasing an impressive six-lot parcel above the famous Castle and Haystack Rock formations, Kauffman began construction of his $1,000,000 dream house in 1926.^

Historical Notes

Leon Kauffman selected architect Kenneth MacDonald in 1926 to design this 12,000-square-foot palazzo in the Beaux- Arts European tradition. This imposing structure features 35 rooms, including nine bedrooms, 11 bathrooms, a huge grand salon (32’ x 64’), a library, a circular dining room, a butler’s pantry, an elevator and a seven-car garage. The construction price of $1 million (that was a lot of money in the late ‘20s!) included a first-ever central vacuum, several hand-made crystal chandeliers, Italian tiles, imported marbles, hand-carved wooden beams, mahogany paneling from Thailand, magnificent wrought-iron gates, even gold grouting for the Italian tiles. The Villa de Leon took five years to complete.*

Historical Notes

Leon Kauffman purchased six elevated lots in the 1920s in the new Castellammare (Castle by the sea) area on the Malibu coast, North of Sunset Boulevard and high above what would soon become Roosevelt Highway, predecessor of the Pacific Coast Highway.*

Historical Notes

When first built, the Villa de Leon boasted topiary gardens, a pipe organ and beach access via a private funicular railway, very expensive amenities that have not survived the passage of time.

Historical Notes

The Kauffmans lived in the house for five years before Leon’s wife (Clemence) died, and Leon lived only another two years. Their grown son chose not to live in the house, which was overseen by caretakers until 1952, when the estate was settled.*

Historical Notes

Villa de Leon has been featured in countless productions over the years, most notably photo shoots.

Historical Notes

The mansion overlooks Pacific Coast Highway and the Pacific Ocean and is situated in close proximity to the Getty Villa. It was designed by prominent Los Angeles architect Kenneth A. MacDonald, Jr. in 1926 for Austrian builder and investor in wool Leon Kauffman.

Historical Notes

The Villa de Leon has been used in many high-profile music videos, commercials, and printed ads such as Beyonce's "Haunted," Lady Gaga's "Paparazzi," Britney Spears's My Prerogative body fragrance commercial, Camila Cabello "Liar", Ariana Grande, Miley Cyrus and Lana Del Rey "Don't Call Me Angel", Rod Stewart's Christmas special Rod Stewart: Merry Christmas, Baby, and shoots featuring Heidi Klum, Victoria Beckham, Robert Pattinson, and Reese Witherspoon. Its highly recognizable grand staircase has been a major focal point in several of these videos and photographs, as has its balconies and their balustrades, including their appearance on the cover of English rock band Procol Harum's 1973 album, Grand Hotel.*^

Historical Notes

Today, many first-time visitors to the adjacent J. Paul Getty Villa mistake the Italianate Revival palazzo, the Villa de Leon, for the Getty Villa museum, not visible from the Pacific Coast Highway. Even the New York Times and The Wall Street Journal have mis-identified Villa de Leon thinking it was the Getty Villa.

Historical Notes

The new Castellammare neighborhood became popular with the Hollywood crowd. John Barrymore, Thelma Todd and Joseph Cotton had homes in the area.

Historical Notes

For the 1932 Summer Olympics, the segment of the PCH between Oxnard and Santa Monica (then known as the Theodore Roosevelt Highway) hosted part of the road cycling events.

Historical Notes

Thelma Todd's Sidewalk Café was a notable Hollywood hotspot in the 1930s, located at 17575 Pacific Coast Highway in the Castellammare neighborhood of Pacific Palisades, California. The building and café have a rich history intertwined with Hollywood's Golden Age and a tragic mystery.

Historical Notes

The Spanish-style building that housed Thelma Todd's Sidewalk Café was originally constructed in 1928. It was designed by architect Mark Daniels in the California Mediterranean and Spanish Colonial Revival styles with Moorish influences. Initially, the structure served as a shopping center for the nearby Castellammare housing development.

Historical Notes

In the summer of 1934, Hollywood actress Thelma Todd and her lover/business partner, director Roland West, opened Thelma Todd's Sidewalk Café on the ground floor of the building. The café quickly became a popular destination for Hollywood's elite, known for its high-end seafood menu and glamorous atmosphere.

Historical Notes

Thelma Todd's Sidewalk Café was a stylish establishment featuring a ground-floor bar, a private upstairs dining area called Joya's Room, and a menu with specialty seafood dishes, including New England-style offerings. Known for its unique cocktails named after celebrities, like the Todd Gin Sour and Thelma Todd Rickey, the café attracted patrons in part due to Todd's frequent presence behind the counter, where she engaged with customers and promoted the business through interviews and photo opportunities. The building itself had a multi-level layout: the café occupied the ground floor, while the second floor housed Joya's Room, Todd’s apartment, and an adjoining apartment for her business partner, connected by a sliding door. A ballroom with a hexagonal shape and a bandstand occupied the third floor, providing an elegant space for events.

Historical Notes

On the morning of December 16, 1935, Thelma Todd was found dead in her car inside the garage of Jewel Carmen, a former actress and former wife of Todd's lover and business partner, Roland West. Carmen's house was approximately a block from the topmost side of Todd's restaurant. Her death was determined to have been caused by carbon monoxide poisoning. Todd had a wide circle of friends and associates as well as a busy social life; police investigations revealed that she had spent the previous Saturday night (December 14) at the Trocadero, a popular Hollywood restaurant, at a party hosted by entertainer Stanley Lupino and his actress daughter, Ida. At the restaurant, she had had a brief but unpleasant exchange with her ex-husband, Pat DiCicco. However, her friends stated that she was in good spirits, and were aware of nothing unusual in her life that could suggest a reason for committing suicide. She was driven home from the party in the early hours of December 15 by her chauffeur.

Historical Notes

The detectives of the LAPD concluded that Todd's death was accidental, the result of her either warming up the car to drive it or using the heater to keep herself warm; however, other evidence, such as a bloodied lip, seemed to point to foul play.

Historical Notes

Tractor trailer trucks first became widely used on American highways in the 1930s. This period marked a crucial turning point for the trucking industry, as these vehicles revolutionized long-distance haulage and transportation of goods.

Historical Notes

Over the decades, the building experienced periods of vacancy and various uses, including serving as a private residence and housing different businesses. Today, the Spanish Colonial Revival building has been renovated and is marketed as a creative office space called "Surfside" by Vibe Office Properties. Photo comparison by Trey Callaway.