Water and Power Associates Informing the Public about Critical Water and Energy Issues facing Los Angeles and California

Historical Notes

The northern sections of the city of Santa Monica once belonged to Rancho San Vicente y Santa Monica and Rancho Boca de Santa Monica. The Sepulveda family sold 38,409 acres of Rancho San Vicente y Santa Monica for $54,000 in 1872 to Colonel Robert S. Baker and his wife, Arcadia Bandini de Stearns Baker. Bandini was the daughter of Juan Bandini, a prominent and wealthy early Californian, and was the widow of Abel Stearns, once the richest man in Los Angeles. Baker also bought a half interest in Rancho Boca de Santa Monica. Nevada Senator John P. Jones bought a half interest in Baker's property in 1874.

To make the town marketable, Jones built a 16-mile rail line between the Santa Monica Bay waterfront and downtown Los Angeles, naming it the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad. It was only the second railroad built in Los Angeles; the first was the Los Angeles and San Pedro, which opened in 1869.

Historical Notes

In 1875, John P. Jones and Colonel Robert S. Baker subdivided part of their joint holdings and created the town of Santa Monica. The town site fronted on the ocean and was bounded on the northwest by Montana Avenue, on the southeast by Colorado Avenue and on the northeast by 26th Street. The avenues were all named after the states of the West, the streets being simply numbered. The first lots in Santa Monica were sold on July 15, 1875.

Historical Notes

The land was auctioned on July 15, 1875 by the San Francisco Office of the Santa Monica Land Company. The advantages of Santa Monica were emphasized, particularly the superiority of its harbor over that of San Pedro.

The lots sold for $500 and $750.  Within a few weeks after the town lot sale a change had come over the barren plain.  Houses and stores sprang up, a general store was opened and a newspaper started.

Historical Notes

The town continued to grow and, in November 1886, the electorate went to the polls and voted 97 to 71 to incorporate Santa Monica.

Historical Notes

The original naming convention for east-west avenues in Santa Monica, established when the townsite was laid out in 1875, used names of Western U.S. states and territories. In later years, many of these street names were changed.

For example:
In 1912, Oregon Street became part of Santa Monica Boulevard.
In 1913, Nevada Street adopted the name Wilshire Boulevard.
In 1924, Utah Street was renamed Broadway.
In 1902, Railroad Avenue was renamed Colorado Avenue.

Historical Notes

Cllick HERE to see more early views of 3rd Street (1910), which would later become the 3rd Street Promenade.

Click HERE to see more early views of the 3rd Street Promenade (1933+)

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad (LA&I) opened in 1875. It was a steam powered rail line which travelled from a wharf North of the current Santa Monica Pier in Santa Monica along a private right-of-way to 5th and San Pedro Street in downtown Los Angeles.

The 16.67 miles of track between Los Angeles and Santa Monica were built by John P. Jones without government subsidies or land grants, all in a little over ten months - primarily using 67 Chinese laborers imported for the task. Right-of-way between Los Angeles and Santa Monica was given by local ranchers who were anxious to have access to a railroad. The line opened October 17, 1875, with two trains a day running between Santa Monica and Los Angeles; the fare was fixed at $1.00 per trip, freight at $1.00 per ton.

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad helped make Santa Monica palatable to real estate speculators and prospective residents, but Jones, who was politically well-connected as a U.S. senator from Nevada, had grander plans for the railroad. Intending to connect the line with the town of Independence in the Owens Valley, and from there to a silver mine he owned in the Panamint Mountains, Jones optimistically included "Independence" in his railroad's name. Jones, however, encountered financial problems stemming from his mines drying out. He reluctantly sold the Los Angeles and Independence to Collis P. Huntington's Southern Pacific Railroad on July 1, 1877 for $195,000.

Click HERE for more on the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad.

Historical Notes

As soon as work started on Los Angeles Independence Railroad line from Los Angeles to Santa Monica the construction of a new wharf was begun. This was located near the old "Shoo Fly" landing and near the present foot of Colorado Street, where a stub of the old wharf still remains. The first pile was driven April 22nd, 1875, and the first boat landed at the wharf in June. This wharf was 1700 feet in length and reached a depth of thirty feet at low tide. It was substantially built, with depot, and warehouses at its terminus and cost about $45,000.

The wharf would be sold to Southern Pacific Railway Company in 1877. One short year later, Southern Pacific deemed the wharf unsafe for train usage and by 1888 it was torn down.

Historical Notes

The wharf stood just south of the present location of the Santa Monica Pier at the foot of Colorado Avenue.

Photo date devised based on the history of the Santa Monica Hotel, which was built in 1877 and the history of the photographer, Carleton E. Watkins, who made two visits to Southern California in 1877 and 1880.

Historical Notes

Duffy’s Bathhouse was the first bathhouse on Santa Monica’s beach. It was built by Michael Duffy beneath the Santa Monica Hotel in 1876 and had 2 structures with 16 rooms with their own freshwater bath and shower. It closed in 1892.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Bathhouse was built next to Duffy's Bath House in 1876 by Baker & Jones and located at the foot of Utah Avenue. It featured rooms for rent, enormous bathtubs and two steam rooms. It was replaced by the North Beach Bath House in 1898.

Historical Notes

Click HERE to see more on the early 5-Globe streetlights seen above.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Hotel, the town's first, was constructed in 1885 to accommodate the increase in tourism resulting from the construction of the new railroad line.

Historical Notes

A later image with a bridge built over the ravine that is visible in the center of this image is seen HERE.

Historical Notes

The first bathhouse on Santa Monica’s beach was built by Michael Duffy beneath the Santa Monica Hotel in 1876 and had 2 structures with 16 rooms with their own freshwater bath and shower. It closed in 1892.

Historical Notes

During the ensuing years several other bathouses were built at the same site. Bathouses, featuring hot saltwater baths, were a big tourist draw to Santa Monica in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

Historical Notes

In 1887 the Santa Monica Hotel burned down. That same year the owner of the former Santa Monica Hotel, J. W. Scott, constructed a massive new hotel, the Arcadia Hotel. It was located near the site of the original Santa Monica Hotel at the corner of Ocean Avenue between Colorado and Pico Boulevard. The luxurious Arcadia Hotel had 125-rooms and featured the latest amenities.

Historical Notes

lIn the 1880s, Santa Monica's North Beach area already boasted several bath houses, setting the foundation for its reputation as a popular seaside resort. The trend began in 1876 when Michael Duffy constructed what is believed to be Southern California's first beachside bathhouse, featuring 16 rooms with freshwater baths and showers. The following year, the Santa Monica Bath House opened adjacent to Duffy's establishment, offering additional amenities such as steam baths and a saltwater pool. This bath house, built by Baker & Jones at the foot of Utah Avenue, continued to operate throughout the 1880s, as evidenced by images from that period. The area's popularity further increased with the opening of the Arcadia Hotel in 1887, which provided its guests with access to a large saltwater bathhouse. While these early facilities were not as grand as the famous North Beach Bath House that would be built in 1894, they played a crucial role in establishing Santa Monica's North Beach as a sought-after destination for beachgoers and tourists during the 1880s.

Historical Notes

In 1769, Francisco Reyes journeyed to Alta California to help establish Franciscan missions and claimed the land for Spain. Soldiers gave the name Santa Monica to a mountain creek that flowed to the Pacific.

Historical Notes

During the second-half of the 19th-century, the canyon was known as a camping area and rustic retreat near the beach hotels and resorts of nearby Santa Monica.

Historical Notes

In the late 1880s, Abbot Kinney, the developer best known for designing the nearby community of Venice to the south, established an experimental forestry station and planted eucalyptus trees, for which the canyon is still known today.

Historical Notes

Despite the challenges of Mother Nature, the beauty and peace of The Canyon began attracted near-by Angelenos. A small grocery store sold fresh produce and items from the local Rancheros and small tents dotted the mouth of The Canyon for picnicking and camping.

Historical Notes

After Mexico won its independence from Spain, Francisco Reyes' grandson Ysidro and his neighbor, Francisco Marquez, were granted 6,656 acres of the Rancho Boca de Santa Monica (mouth of the Santa Monica). They built the area's first permanent structures.

Historical Notes

Remarks from donor Ernest Marquez, 2015: "The adobe house was built by my grandfather Pascual Marquez in 1875, about 75 yards from the adobe where he was born, built by his father Francisco in 1839. I think Pascual’s adobe collapsed in an earthquake in the 1930s."  

Historical Notes

These type of horse-drawn wagons transported visitors from Los Angeles to Santa Monica before the arrival of train service to the area.

Historical Notes

The 1st mail wagon was established by "Aunt Lucy" Cheney and began service in 1880. It provided mail service between Santa Monica and Topanga Canyon. They began to carry passengers (as shown here) in 1885. Also pictured is "Uncle Mose" Cheney.*

Historical Notes

North Beach in Santa Monica emerged as a popular tourist destination in the 1880s, setting the stage for the area's future development. The arrival of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad, owned by Senator John P. Jones, made the beach easily accessible to visitors from Los Angeles. Following a business depression in the late 1870s, Santa Monica's economy rebounded in the early 1880s, largely due to its appeal as a beach destination. By 1887, North Beach facilities were attracting 2,000 to 3,000 visitors daily during summer months, and in 1889, the Southern Pacific Railroad alone brought 200,000 tourists to Santa Monica. While the iconic North Beach Bath House wasn't built until 1894, its construction was a direct result of the area's growing popularity in the preceding decade. Financed by Senator Jones, this impressive $50,000 structure featured saltwater plunges, dressing rooms, a rooftop garden, and various entertainment facilities. The bath house, designed by architect Sumner P. Hunt, became a centerpiece of Santa Monica's beachfront attractions, further cementing North Beach's status as a premier seaside resort destination.

Historical Notes

While the camera angles differ slightly, the contemporary image clearly shows more sand on the beach. This increase is largely due to human intervention, particularly through beach nourishment projects. Over the past century, efforts have been made to widen and enhance the beach to boost tourism and recreation. Key factors include adding approximately 30 million cubic yards of sand, sourced from infrastructure projects and dredging operations, and the desire to make Santa Monica Beach resemble the wider, flatter beaches of the East Coast.

In 1947, for example, nearly 14 million cubic yards of sand were removed to make way for El Segundo's Hyperion power plant. They were deposited onto Santa Monica's beaches. Another million cubic yards came a couple years later, the sand this time recovered from dredging operations along a nearby breakwater. In all, some thirty million cubic yards of sand have been dumped onto the beaches of Santa Monica and Venice. 

Historical Notes

The Arcadia Hotel opened for business in 1887 and was located on Ocean Avenue between Railroad Avenue (later known as Colorado Avenue) and Front (later known as Pico Boulevard). The Arcadia was the largest structure in Santa Monica at the time of its construction. The 125-room hotel was owned by J.W. Scott, the proprietor of the city's first hotel, the Santa Monica Hotel. The hotel was named for Arcadia Bandini de Baker, the wife of Santa Monica cofounder Colonel R. S. Baker.

Historical Notes

In the 1880s and 1890s, North Beach in Santa Monica featured various temporary structures like house tents, beach cottages, vendor tents, and bath houses. House tents provided simple, affordable seaside accommodations, while small beach cottages offered more permanent lodging. Vendor tents and bath houses, including the Santa Monica and North Beach Bath Houses, provided amenities like refreshments and saltwater baths. These developments reflect Santa Monica's early growth as a beach resort, catering to the increasing demand for oceanfront leisure and recreation.

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad Wharf was in use between 1875 and 1879, at which time it was partially dismantled. In 1898, a new pier would be built, North Beach Pier, just to the north of where the above wharf is seen.

Historical Notes

Originally known as “Linda Vista Park,” Palisades Park was the first officially-designated public open space in Santa Monica. The land was donated to the City by Santa Monica's founder, Senator John P. Jones, in 1892.

Historical Notes

Tracks were first laid in Santa Monica in 1875 with the construction of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad. This steam-powered rail line connected Santa Monica to downtown Los Angeles, running from the Santa Monica Long Wharf north of the current Santa Monica Pier to 5th and San Pedro streets in Los Angeles. This line was intended to serve both freight and passenger purposes, facilitating the transport of mined ore and beachgoers.

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad was purchased by the Southern Pacific Railroad on July 1, 1877.

In 1892, the Southern Pacific Railroad extended the existing tracks, seen above, to their new Long Wharf (completed in 1893) north of Santa Monica Canyon, enhancing the line's capacity to handle larger ships and increasing its importance for freight and passenger transport.

Beach Road became Roosevelt Highway in Santa Monica in 1927. This change was part of a larger effort to develop the highway system along the California coast, and the Roosevelt Highway would later become known as the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). The railroad tracks along Santa Monica Beach were in use from 1891 until 1933.

It appears that the majority of beach shacks along Santa Monica's North Beach were removed with the laying of railroad tracks by Southern Pacific in 1892. No photos of these beach shacks have been found after 1892.

Historical Notes

Originally known as “Linda Vista Park,” Palisades Park was the first officially-designated public open space in Santa Monica. The land was donated to the City by Santa Monica's founder, Senator John P. Jones, in 1892.

Linda Vista Park was renamed Palisades Park in the 1920s.

Historical Notes

The Arcadia Hotel opened for business in 1887 and was located on Ocean Avenue between Railroad Avenue (later known as Colorado Avenue) and Front (later known as Pico Boulevard). The Arcadia was the largest structure in Santa Monica at the time of its construction. The 125-room hotel was owned by J.W. Scott, the proprietor of the city's first hotel, the Santa Monica Hotel. The hotel was named for Arcadia Bandini de Baker, the wife of Santa Monica cofounder Colonel R. S. Baker.

Historical Notes

Being located on a bluff, all 125 rooms in the 5-story building boasted unobstructed views. It featured a grand ballroom, upscale dining room and its own roller coaster. A bathhouse was located on the beach directly below the hotel, offering guests hot saltwater baths.

The pinnacle of the hotel was an observation tower, offering breathtaking views in every direction a dizzying 136 feet above the beach level.

Historical Notes

The Arcadia Hotel was the site where Colonel Griffith J. Griffith shot his wife in 1903, which led to their divorce and his (short) imprisonment.

In 1882 Griffith moved to Los Angeles and purchased approximately 4,000 acres of the Rancho Los Feliz Mexican land grant. On December 16, 1896, Griffith and his wife Christina presented 3,015 acres of the Rancho Los Feliz to the city of Los Angeles for use as a public park. Griffith called it "a Christmas present." After accepting the donation, the city passed an ordinance to name the property Griffith Park, in honor of the donor. Griffith later donated another 1,000 acres along the Los Angeles River.

Historical Notes

The Arcadia Hotel was a landmark, hailed as one of the finest hotels in Southern California in its day. However, like many hotels in the area, the Arcadia hotel was forced to close in times of slow business; the hotel closed for one year from 1888-1889, and permanently in 1906 when the building boom subsided. In 1907, there was a failed attempt to convert the hotel into a private school for the California Military Academy, but the property stood abandoned until it was demolished in 1909 to make room for beach improvements, homes, and hotels.

Historical Notes

A special delight for Arcadia Hotel guests was a two-track gravity switchback roller coaster, which in a one minute journey, could whisk guests either to or from the hotel and back again. For five cents, riders would climb a platform to board the large bench-like car and were pushed off to coast 300 ft. down the track across the ravine.  The car went just over 6 mph.  At the top of the other platform the vehicle was switched to a return track or "switched back" (hence the name).

Historical Notes

The original Switchback Railway (Coney Island) was the first roller coaster designed as an amusement ride in America. It was designed by LaMarcus Adna Thompson in 1881 and constructed in 1884. It appears Thompson based his design, at least in part, on the Mauch Chunk Switchback Railway which was a coal-mining train that had started carrying passengers as a thrill ride in 1827.

Historical Notes

The Arcadia Hotel opened for business in 1887 and was located on Ocean Avenue between Railroad Avenue (later known as Colorado Avenue) and Front (later known as Pico Boulevard). The Arcadia was the largest structure in Santa Monica at the time of its construction. The 125-room hotel was owned by J.W. Scott, the proprietor of the city's first hotel, the Santa Monica Hotel. The hotel was named for Arcadia Bandini de Baker, the wife of Santa Monica cofounder Colonel R. S. Baker.

The hotel was built next to a steep cliff and shows only 3 stories on the Ocean Avenue side and 5 stories on the beach side as seen above.

Historical Notes

The North Beach Bath House was built in 1898 and replaced the 1876-built Santa Monica Bath House.

Historical Notes

When it opened in 1887, Santa Monica's ritzy Arcadia Hotel offered its guests a large saltwater bathhouse, the Arcadia Bath House.

Historical Notes

In 1891, the Southern Pacific Railroad built a tunnel under Ocean Avenue for its new rail line to Santa Monica Canyon that was later sold to the Pacific Electric Railway . The rail line was in use from 1891 to 1933.

Historical Notes

In 1936, the Southern Pacific Tunnel was enlarged for vehicular use (later renamed McClure Tunnel) and connected Lincoln Boulevard with the Roosevelt Highway (later PCH).  Click HERE to see more.

Historical Notes

The Arcadia Hotel was built in 1887 and demolished in 1907.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Cycle Path was a pioneering bicycle route in Los Angeles, completed in 1900. It was an 18-mile cycleway that provided a smooth, reliable route from Los Angeles to the coast, specifically Santa Monica. This path was significant as it paralleled the often rutted and poorly maintained wagon roads of the time, offering cyclists a much-needed alternative for safe and efficient travel.

The cycle path was a six-foot-wide gravel road, closed to all but cyclists and pedestrians. It featured arches that marked the route and prevented buggies and wagons from entering. These arches also carried advertisements to help fund the path.

The path offered varied scenery, from farmland and meadows to more industrial areas like the Hauser slaughterhouse. It was shaded by newly planted pepper trees, providing a pleasant riding experience.

Upon its opening, the Santa Monica Cycle Path significantly reduced travel time between Los Angeles and Santa Monica. It quickly became popular among cyclists, who previously had to navigate treacherous wagon roads.

Historical Notes

The 18-mile Santa Monica Cycle Path was a pioneering dedicated bicycle route that spanned from downtown Los Angeles to the coastal city of Santa Monica. Beginning in the bustling heart of downtown, the path primarily followed Washington Street, which was later renamed Washington Boulevard. This major thoroughfare provided a direct east-west connection through the city. Key intersections along the route included Third Avenue and Western Avenue, which served as significant landmarks for cyclists. As the path continued westward, it traversed the mid-city areas of Los Angeles, an area that was less developed at the time and offered a more open and scenic route for cyclists. Moving further west, the path passed through what is now the Culver City area, still following Washington Boulevard. The route concluded in Santa Monica, providing access to the popular coastal destination and its recreational areas.

Washington Street in Los Angeles was renamed to Washington Boulevard around 1903. The change from "Street" to "Boulevard" occurred in the early 20th century, with the earliest reference to "Washington Street" found in 1860. By 1905, it was already known as Washington Boulevard, as evidenced by reports of it being used as a speedway for horse driving clubs west of Western Avenue.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Cycle Path was built as part of the "good roads" movement, spearheaded by the League of American Wheelmen. This movement aimed to improve road conditions across the United States, initially for cyclists but eventually benefiting all road users. Even the fundraising drive for the cycle path doubled as a publicity campaign for the movement; boosters purchased "good roads" buttons that they could later wear on their coats in lieu of paying a toll.

The cycle path intersected Washington Boulevard at Western Avenue. This location was part of the broader route that connected Los Angeles to Santa Monica, making it a crucial segment of the path.

Historical Notes

Despite its success and popularity, the rise of the automobile in the early 20th century led to the decline of dedicated bicycle paths like this one. The Santa Monica Cycle Path eventually fell into disuse, overshadowed by the expanding road network designed for cars. Nonetheless, it remains an important chapter in Los Angeles' transportation history, reflecting early efforts to create dedicated infrastructure for cyclists and the evolving dynamics of urban transportation.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Cycle Path, along with the similar California Cycleway located in Pasadena, were two projects that reflected the cycling boom of the 1890s when Los Angeles had over 35,000 cyclists. They represented early attempts to create dedicated infrastructure for non-motorized transportation, predating the car-centric development that would come to define Los Angeles in the 20th century. While neither project achieved long-term success, they remain important chapters in the history of transportation and urban planning in Southern California.

Historical Notes

Senator Jones built a mansion, Miramar, and his wife Georgina planted a Moreton Bay Fig tree in its front yard in 1889. The tree is now in the courtyard of the Fairmont Miramar Hotel and is the second-largest such tree in California, the largest being the tree in Santa Barbara.

Historical Notes

In 1924 Senator Jones’ mansion became the grand Miramar Hotel

Historical Notes

Originally the location of Santa Monica's founding father Senator Jones mansion, the Miramar has provided shelter for rich and famous guests looking for an extended beach stay since the 1920s. Notables include Cary Grant, John F Kennedy, Charles Lindbergh and Eleanor Roosevelt.

In 1924 the six-story Palisades Wing was constructed to provide apartments for guests who planned lengthy stays at the beach. Scandinavian beauty Greta Garbo was one of the first celebrity guests to move into the wing and resided there for more than four years.

Sultry blonde Jean Harlow rented one of the Miramar's bungalows in the early 1930s, and years later another famous blonde, Marilyn Monroe, frequently retreated to the Miramar when she wanted to disappear from the media.

Historical Notes

The above map was prepared by the Title Guarantee & Trust Company in 1935.  Other landmarks on the map include, from left to right, top to bottom: Calabasas, Santa Susana Pass, Chatsworth, Fremont Pass, San Bernardo, El Mission de San Fernando, Tujunga Canyon, Verdugo Mountains, Burbank, Glendale, Laurel Canyon, Cahuenga Pass, La Canada, Verdugo Canyon, Pasadena, Santa Monica Mountains, Sepulveda Canyon, Franklin Canyon, Sherman, Laguna, La Brea, Brea Pits, Hollywood, Colegrove, Bath House, Canon de Santa Monica, Casa de Reyes, Casa de Marquez, Rodeo de las Aguas, Las Cienegas, Westlake Park, Los Angeles, Santa Monica, Rincon de los Bueyos, and La Ballona.

Historical Notes

When the Southern Pacific Railroad arrived at Los Angeles, a controversy erupted over where to locate the city's main seaport. The SPRR preferred Santa Monica, while others advocated for San Pedro Bay. The Long Wharf was built in 1893 at the north end of Santa Monica to accommodate large ships and was dubbed Port Los Angeles. At the time it was constructed, it was the longest pier in the world at 4700 feet, and accommodated a train.

However, just a short four years after the Long Wharf's construction, San Pedro Bay was chosen over Santa Monica to be the main seaport of Los Angeles. Click HERE to see more in Early Views of San Pedro and Wilmington.

Historical Notes

n 1897, San Pedro Bay, now known as the Port of Los Angeles, was selected by the United States Congress to be the official port of Los Angeles (Port of Los Angeles) over Santa Monica. Still, the Long Wharf acted as the major port of call for Los Angeles until 1903. Though the final decision disappointed the city's residents, the selection allowed Santa Monica to maintain its scenic charm. The rail line down to Santa Monica Canyon was sold to the Pacific Electric Railway, and was in use from 1891 to 1933.

Click HERE to see more in Early Views of San Pedro and Wilmington.

Historical Notes

Adjacent to the wharf, and extending northwest to the mouth of Temescal Canyon, a Japanese fishing village was established in 1899 by fisherman Hatsuji Sano on land leased from the railroad. Eventually the home of about 300 Japanese families and a small number of Russians, the village also included two hotels. However, this venture was largely abandoned by 1920, by which time most of the fisherman had moved to Terminal Island and the property was condemned.

Historical Notes

CThe Santa Monica Canyon area was experiencing a land boom during the late 1880’s attracting tycoons (either actual or potential) of every industry. One such industrious man was Abbot Kinney who opened the first forestry station in the adjacent Rustic Canyon in 1887. One of his objectives was to test trees, primarily eucalyptus, as cash crops. On 247 acres of land Kinney began planting trees. Despite the success of the trees, it was clear they were not an effective cash crop and Kinney soon sold the property. Notwithstanding a devastating fire in 1904, many of the trees survived creating the plentiful and beautiful eucalyptus groves in Rustic Canyon today. A plaque was dedicated on August 18, 1971, officially designating the eucalyptus groves as a California State Historical Landmark.

Click HERE to see more California HIstorical Landmarks.

Historical Notes

Because of the construction of the nearby Long Wharf, a railroad was built right by the mouth of the Santa Monica Canyon.  The area now became accessible to hundreds of people. Traveling characters enjoyed days of croquet, horseback riding, and, of course, bathing.

Historical Notes

The increased sand on Santa Monica Beach compared to 100 years ago is largely due to human intervention, particularly through beach nourishment projects. Over the past century, efforts have been made to widen and enhance the beach to boost tourism and recreation. Key factors include the artificial widening of the beach by adding approximately 30 million cubic yards of sand, sourced from infrastructure projects and dredging operations, and the desire to make Santa Monica Beach resemble wider, flatter East Coast beaches.

In 1947, for example, nearly 14 million cubic yards of sand were removed to make way for El Segundo's Hyperion power plant. They were deposited onto Santa Monica's beaches. Another million cubic yards came a couple years later, the sand this time recovered from dredging operations along a nearby breakwater. In all, some thirty million cubic yards of sand have been dumped onto the beaches of Santa Monica and Venice. 

Historical Notes

The railroad depot seen in the above photo is still standing today.  The original 1890’s structure is the entrance to Patrick’s Roadhouse Restaurant, 106 Entrada Drive. The lunch counter and booth area of the restaurant appear to be the original fixtures as well.

Historical Notes

After San Pedro Bay was selected over the Long Wharf as the location of the new Los Angeles Harbor, the rail line down to Santa Monica Canyon was sold by Southern Pacific Railroad to the Pacific Electric Railway. The track was in use from 1891 to 1933.

Historical Notes

Adelaide Dr. and 4th house is still there. It was built in 1906 for R C Gillis as a summer house. Gillis and partners subdivided area as The Palisades and marketed it as a place to build summer houses for Los Angeles residents.

Historical Notes

Ocean Avenue starts at the residential Adelaide Drive (seen above) on the north end of Santa Monica and ends at Pico Boulevard. It is westernmost street in Santa Monica, and for most of its course it runs parallel to Palisades Park, whose bluffs overlook Pacific Coast Highway and Santa Monica State Beach.

Historical Notes

Santa Monica Canyon in the 1880s was a landscape in transition, poised on the brink of significant development. Originally part of the Mexican land grant Rancho Boca de Santa Monica, the area experienced a land boom in the late 1880s, though the first formal subdivision wouldn't be created until 1912. A pivotal moment came in 1887 with the establishment of the Old Santa Monica Forestry Station in Rustic Canyon, the nation's first experimental forestry station. This facility tested exotic trees and conducted important management studies, setting a precedent for scientific research in the area. The canyon was renowned for its natural water resources, with streams formed by moisture gathering on the hills, making the land particularly fertile. Infrastructure development was also underway, with railroad tracks laid near the canyon by 1885. This decade marked the beginning of Santa Monica Canyon's transformation from expansive ranchland to a more settled area, laying the foundation for the intensive development that would follow in subsequent years.

Historical Notes

The Long Wharf, also known as Port Los Angeles, was a major infrastructure project built by the Southern Pacific Railroad Company. Construction began in 1892 and was completed in 1894. At the time of its opening, it was the longest wharf in the world, stretching approximately 4,700 feet (1,400 meters) into Santa Monica Bay, just north of Santa Monica Canyon. The wharf served as a cargo and passenger port until 1913. It was constructed to establish Port Los Angeles, as the city lacked a natural harbor, and was a collaborative effort between Collis P. Huntington of Southern Pacific Railroad and Nevada Senator John P. Jones, who also founded Santa Monica. The Santa Monica Canyon Line, a tram line built in 1891, connected the wharf to the city, running from Ocean Avenue and Colorado Avenue through a tunnel to the beach. The Long Wharf played a vital role in the region's development by bringing lumber from Northern ports to support Southern California’s construction boom.

Historical Notes

The Long Wharf's prominence was short-lived despite its initial success. It began losing significant traffic to San Pedro after the latter was selected as the site for the Port of Los Angeles in 1897. The wharf's dismantling commenced in 1919, with its tip removed by 1920. The remaining structure served as a fishing pier until its complete removal in 1933. Today, the former site of the Long Wharf is recognized as a California Historical Landmark (site number 881) and is located in present-day Pacific Palisades at Will Rogers State Beach, preserving the memory of this once-impressive maritime structure.

Historical Notes

Tract planning for residential homes in the Santa Monica Canyon began in 1912. Santa Monica Land Companies owned by Gillis, Sherman, and C.L. Bundy promoted one expensive new tract after another. At the place Where the Mountains meet the Sea (as The Canyon was advertised), the Bundy’s built a bath house with picnic area, refreshments, and dance pavilion. It became the favorite oasis of many until it burned down in 1927.

Francis Eugene "Frank" Bundy (1870-1944), commonly known as F.E. Bundy, was part of the Bundy family that played a significant role in the development of Santa Monica, including having Bundy Drive named after them. F.E. Bundy was one of the Bundy brothers, which included G.G. Bundy, C.L. Bundy, Nathan P. Bundy, and Thomas C. Bundy. The Bundy family originally moved to Santa Monica from Ames, Iowa, where they established a home in Santa Monica Canyon. F.E. Bundy became a prominent real estate developer in Santa Monica, acquiring substantial real estate holdings through his business ventures.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Canyon Bath House, also known as Bundy Bath House, was a prominent recreational landmark in the early 20th century. Situated at the mouth of Santa Monica Canyon on the beach, it operated from at least 1915 to 1927. Built and owned by F.E. Bundy, a member of the Santa Monica Land Company, the bathhouse played a key role in promoting the area's residential development.

The Bundy Bath House offered a range of amenities, including refreshment stands, picnic areas, a dance pavilion, and changing rooms, making it a popular destination for locals and visitors. As Santa Monica Canyon developed into a recreational and residential hub, the bathhouse’s location near the Pacific Electric Railway tracks leading to the Long Wharf made it easily accessible.

Described as "the favorite oasis of many," the bathhouse was central to the growing leisure culture of the period. However, in 1927, it was destroyed by fire, marking the end of its brief but impactful existence. The area continued to evolve, and the Pacific Coast Highway was later constructed near its former site. Despite its short lifespan, the Bundy Bath House was an important part of Santa Monica Canyon’s transition from a rural landscape to a thriving residential community.

Historical Notes

In November 1919 the Pacific Electric Railway announced they were going to pull down the entire wharf.  By the middle of the next summer not a trace of it was left.

Historical Notes

Pacific Palisades was founded in 1920 by Dr. Charles Holmes Scott of the Methodist Episcopal Church, who sought permanent roots for his religious community. Scott, along with a delegation of Methodist ministers and laymen, purchased 16.6 acres of Rustic Canyon property (then-owned by scholar and widow Julia Edmond) and 11.8 acres of land adjacent to a forestry station. That same year, the Pacific Palisades Association was established to implement Scott’s plans and to further expand the community — in land and in population. January 14, 1922 was Pacific Palisades’ official “opening day.”

In 1926, the Pacific Palisades Association purchased the land that was owned by the Huntington family of New York. Both a commemorative gesture and a way to benefit from the prestige associated with the Huntington name, the area was deemed “Huntington Palisades.”

Historical Notes

Click HERE to see more early views of Santa Monica Canyon

Historical Notes

The Pacific Palisades lighthouse was built as a bathhouse with a working light in 1927. In the early 1930s the structure along with the beach was sold to Will Rogers and later the beach was given to the state of California and renamed the Will Rogers State Beach.

Historical Notes

“The Lighthouse” restaurant and bathhouse opened for business on Memorial Day, 1927. Built by the Pacific Palisades Association and designed by architect Thomas P. Barber, the bathhouse featured a second floor dining room, a wrap-around Venetian colonnade, and was large enough to accommodate 500 patrons.

Historical Notes

Although it was not a true lighthouse, the picturesque building was commonly featured in promotional photographs and materials advertising Southern California. It was also an important visual point of reference for boats navigating into Santa Monica Bay.

Historical Notes

The most distinctive feature was the 50-foot tall lighthouse tower with a functioning beacon powered by eight 500-watt lamps. The Lighthouse was a popular destination and become an iconic landmark as the Roosevelt Highway (later the PCH) opened up through Malibu in 1929, connecting all of California along a single coast highway.

Historical Notes

In 1926, the Pacific Palisades Association purchased the land that was owned by the Huntington family of New York. Both a commemorative gesture and a way to benefit from the prestige associated with the Huntington name, the area was deemed “Huntington Palisades.”

Historical Notes

The Long Wharf was the longest ocean wharf in the world at 4700 feet. It was built in 1893 by the Southern Pacific Railroad, and it was destroyed in 1920 by the Pacific Electric Railroad Co.

The Long Wharf was designated California HIstorical Landmark No. 881. Click HERE to see more California Historical Landmarks in L.A.

Historical Notes

Over the decades, as the popularity of bathhouses faded, the patronage of the Lighthouse diminished. Eventually, the building was taken over by the Will Rogers State Beach lifeguard, serving as a part of the lifeguard headquarters. By 1972, the Lighthouse structure was determined to be unsuitable for habitation and was razed.

Historical Notes

Notes from reverse of photo: Roosevelt Highway Blocked Again. Santa Monica, Calif.,--Southern California's Roosevelt Highway along the Pacific Ocean near here was the scene of another traffic-stopping earth slide from the towering beach front Palisades. The 200-foot, 30-foot deep chunk of earth slid from the backyard of actor Charles Laughton. Photo date: 8/29/44

Historical Notes

Roosevelt Highway was widened and renamed Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) along this stretch in the 1940s.

Rustic Creek, flowing through Rustic Canyon in Pacific Palisades, has a history intertwined with the area's development since the Spanish land grant era. Originally part of Rancho Boca de Santa Monica, the canyon gained prominence in 1887 when Abbot Kinney established a forestry station and planted eucalyptus trees. The early 20th century saw increased development, including the founding of Pacific Palisades in 1922 and the establishment of the Uplifters Club. Will Rogers' purchase of his ranch in Upper Rustic Canyon in 1926 further elevated the area's profile. 

Historical Notes

Will Rogers Beach, located near Chautauqua in the Pacific Palisades area, was officially named and dedicated on July 26, 1942. This occurred about seven years after the death of Will Rogers, who had owned the beachfront property in the 1920s and early 1930s. Following his death in a 1935 plane crash, his widow Betty developed a plan to gift their oceanfront land to the state of California. The beach was initially owned and operated by the State of California from its dedication in 1942 until 1975, when the County of Los Angeles took over its management. The naming of the beach was part of a larger effort to transform the Rogers' private property into a public recreational area, preserving Will Rogers' legacy and providing public access to this stretch of coastline.

Historical Notes

Today, Rustic Creek remains one of the few natural streams in developed Los Angeles, running past Will Rogers State Historic Park and into Topanga State Park. It continues to be a vital part of the local ecosystem, surrounded by a prestigious residential neighborhood known for its natural beauty and seclusion.

Highlighted in purple on the Google Earth view is the Eames Foundation, located at 203 Chautauqua Boulevard in Pacific Palisades, California. Established in 2004, the foundation preserves the Eames House—an iconic mid-20th century modernist structure designed by Charles and Ray Eames in 1949. Part of the Case Study House program, this landmark served as both their home and studio and is now recognized as a National Historic Landmark.

Historical Notes

The bluffs at Pacific Palisades above Will Rogers Beach have transformed from vertical to slanted due to a mix of natural and human influences. Eroding at an average rate of about 4 inches per year, the bluffs—composed of easily erodible materials like sand, silt, gravel, and clay—are particularly vulnerable to erosion and slumping. Significant weather events, such as heavy rains during El Niño periods, have triggered landslides, notably in 1998. Seismic activity, like the Northridge Earthquake, has also contributed to bluff collapses. Human activities may have further impacted their stability. Over time, these combined forces have reshaped the bluffs into a more stable, sloped formation, reflecting the natural evolution of coastal landscapes.

Historical Notes

In 1911, film director Thomas Ince created his Western film factory, "Inceville," which at its peak employed nearly 600 people.

Historical Notes

Ince leased 18,000 acres of land extending from the seashore up Santa Ynez Canyon and into the mountains for 7-1/2 miles. While he was building the frame-structured studio buildings, situated where Gladstone’s Restaurant is today, he also hired Miller’s 101 Ranch Wildwest Show, including many cowboys, animals and a Sioux Indian tribe, who set up their teepees on the property.

Historical Notes

Most of the cowboys, Indians and assorted workmen lived at Inceville, while the actors came from Los Angeles and other communities as needed, taking the red trolley cars to the Long Wharf at Potrero Canyon, where buckboards conveyed them to the set. Ince lived in a house that overlooked Inceville, the location of Marquez Knolls today.

Historical Notes

By 1916, Ince was supervising eight directors and releasing one five-reel picture (about 50-minute films) each week at an average cost of $40,000. His film ‘Civilization,’ which employed over 25,000 extras, was by far his most ambitious endeavor. The set for the mythical city stood alone on the barren hills, where Marquez Elementary School is today. It was built by 60 carpenters over a period of three months at a cost of $80,000 and was used for only 100 feet of film.

Historical Notes

Incville's cost continued to rise as moviegoers enjoyed the more expensive feature films, which used five reels or more.  Ince, through his alliance with Triangle, a production company founded by D. W. Griffith and Mark Sennett, built a new studio in Culver City to use for indoor movies, while retaining Inceville for outdoor locations and Westerns.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Bath House was replaced by the North Beach Bath House in 1898.

Two piers are seen in the above view. The lower pier is the remains of the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad Wharf. The pier further north is the North Beach Pier, built in 1898 (same year as the North Beach Bath House).

Historical Notes

The North Beach Pier was built adjacent to the North Beach Bath House in 1898. At 200 feet long, it was a place where guests of the North Beach Bath House could stroll.

Historical Notes

The remains of the 1875-built Los Angeles & Independence Railroad Wharf is further south closer to the Arcadia Hotel.

Historical Notes

The pipeline seen above is some form of discharge pipe that came out of the North Beach Bathhouse.

Historical Notes

Santa Monica Electric and Power Company built a power house on the beach in the late 1890s.

Historical Notes

The North Beach Bath House in Santa Monica has a rich history. It was opened on June 9, 1894, and was in service until 1910. The bathhouse was financed by Senator John P. Jones at a cost of $50,000 and was described as the "largest and finest of its kind on this Coast" by the Los Angeles Times. The structure was 440 feet long, two stories tall, and included a variety of features such as two large saltwater plunges, an ornate parlor, 300 dressing rooms, a rooftop garden/observation deck, a bowling alley, a ballroom, and the Pavilion Restaurant with three dining spaces. The architect behind this grand building was Sumner P. Hunt, who also designed the Southwest Museum in Los Angeles and the County of Los Angeles General Hospital.

Historical Notes

The North Beach Bath House was a popular attraction, drawing large crowds for its amenities and the beach experience it offered. It was eventually torn down in 1911 to make way for more modern structures, as noted in a 1912 Los Angeles Times article. The bathhouse was part of a broader development in Santa Monica that included the nearby landmark Hotel Arcadia.

Historical Notes

The Santa Monica Camera Obscura was an optic device built in 1898 by Robert F. Jones, nephew of Senator John P. Jones, the founder of the City of Santa Monica. “Camera Obscura” means darken chamber. It is a darken room in which the device allows a 360 degree view of the outside surroundings.  Sort of like a pinhole camera, a hole in the roof allows light from outside pass through the hole striking a white board where the image is shown in color but upside down. The camera obscura was known to earlier scholars since the time of Aristole.

Historical Notes

In 1907, the Camera Obscura was given to the city and then relocated to the top of the bluffs. The camera spent almost 50 years documenting life on the Santa Monica beach.

Historical Notes

In 1955 the Camera Obscura was installed in the nearby Senior Recreation Center at 1450 Ocean Boulevard where it can still be seen today. Many images of the popular beach community throughout the years are on display to compare to the current view.

Historical Notes

Linda Vista Park was renamed Palisades Park in the 1920s.

Historical Notes

In 1895, Abbot Kinney acquired the deed to the coastal strip previously purchased by W.D. Vawter and named the area Ocean Park. It became his first amusement park and residential project. A race track and golf course were built on the Ocean Park Casino. After a falling out with his partners he focused on the south end of the property, which he made into Venice of America.

Click HERE to see more in Early Southern California Amusement Parks.

Historical Notes

Formerly known as Decoration Day, Memorial Day originated after the American Civil War to commemorate the Union and Confederate soldiers who died in the Civil War. By the 20th century, Memorial Day had been extended to honor all Americans who have died while in the military service.*^

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles Pacific Railway was built by Eli Clark and Moses H. Sherman, for whom Clark Drive, Shermanton (now West Hollywood), and Sherman Avenue (now Santa Monica Boulevard) were first named. They were early pioneers of interurban electric railways that laid track from downtown to the sea. Their Los Angeles to Santa Monica line opened on April 1, 1896 to an excited beach crowd in Santa Monica.*#

Historical Notes

Santa Monica Airport was originally called "Clover Field" after World War I aviator Lieutenant Greayer "Grubby" Clover, and was home of the Douglas Aircraft company. The first circumnavigation of the world by air took off from Clover Field on St. Patrick's Day, March 17, 1942. At one point, it was the site of the Army's 40th Division Aviation, and became a Distribution Center after World War II.*

Historical Notes

Edwin J. Vawter, was from a pioneering Santa Monica family. His father established Santa Monica's first general store and First National Bank. A 1901 guidebook (Wilson's Illustrated and Descriptive Souvenir and Guide to Los Angeles and Near-by Towns) described the carnation fields thus: "One of the most beautiful attractions [in Ocean Park] is the carnation field of Mr. E.J. Vawter. It is situated on a ridge overlooking the grand old Pacific. Here carnations are in full bloom summer and winter."

It was probably helpful that Mr. Vawter was also in charge of the city water company.

Historical Notes

In 1891, Abott Kinney and (silent partner) Francis G. Ryan purchased a 1-1/2 mile long, narrow strip of sand dunes along the shore line south of Santa Monica extending from Strand Street to Brooks Avenue from a Captain Hutchinson.  To encourage building, water was brought in, the tract was sewered, board walks laid, and lots leased to persons desiring to put up small cottages.

That same year, Kinney & Ryan (Ocean Park Development Company) built a pier, golf course, horse-racing track, boardwalk and other resort amenities on the northernmost edge of their holdings. They would also give 12 acres to the Santa Fe Railroad so they would extend their Inglewood line north to Kinney and Ryan’s resort.

In 1893, Kinney and Ryan began selling small 25 x 100 foot beach lots priced at $100 and featured piped water.  Tents were erected on the unsold lots and were available to campers for summer rental. Frederick Rindge, who was president of the Los Angeles YMCA, founds a YMCA summer camp on 5 acres of land located on 250ft beach front near Hill St., donated by Kinney who hopes that the YMCA camp will attract people to his beach resort.*

Historical Notes

Kinney and Ryan’s original resort consisted of 150 beach cottages, and a small commercial district along Pier Avenue. A building boom added 40 new beach cottages, several stores, and Kinney’s new 40 acre Ocean Park race course and golf links. The resort would be subdivided and sold to more developers and by 1902, there were over 700 cottages in Ocean Park.*

Historical Notes

In 1898, Ryan died and his widow married Thomas Dudley of Santa Monica who becomes Kinney's new partner.

After 1904, Kinney moved his attention to his Venice of America development (also called Ocean Park at the time) , south of the Santa Monica city boundary.

The history of Venice and Ocean Park are intertwinned. From 1905 to 1925, Ocean Park was developed by people such as Fraser, Merritt Jones, Hart, Hollister and Wadsworth.*

Historical Notes

Originally known as “Linda Vista Park,” Palisades Park was the first officially-designated public open space in Santa Monica. The land was donated to the City by Santa Monica's founder, Senator John P. Jones, in 1892.

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad Wharf was in use between 1875 and 1879, at which time it was purchased by the Southern Pacific Railroad company and partially dismantled. It stood just south of the present location of the Santa Monica Pier at the foot of Colorado Avenue.

Historical Notes

Most of the beach shacks would be removed with the laying of railroad tracks along the beach by Southern Pacific in 1892.

Historical Notes

This wooden staircase, the “99 Steps”, was constructed in 1875 to allow easy access to the beach.  It was located at the foot of Arizona Avenue.  The steps were later altered so that Southern Pacific trains en route to the Long Wharf could pass underneath.

Historical Notes

Southern Pacific Railroad installed a rail line down to Santa Monica Canyon that was later sold to the Pacific Electric Railway. It was in use from 1891 to 1933.

Historical Notes

Tracks were first laid in Santa Monica in 1875 with the construction of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad. This steam-powered rail line connected Santa Monica to downtown Los Angeles, running from the Santa Monica Long Wharf north of the current Santa Monica Pier to 5th and San Pedro streets in Los Angeles. This line was intended to serve both freight and passenger purposes, facilitating the transport of mined ore and beachgoers.

The Los Angeles and Independence Railroad was purchased by the Southern Pacific Railroad on July 1, 1877.

In 1892, the Southern Pacific Railroad extended the existing tracks, seen above, to their new Long Wharf (completed in 1893) north of Santa Monica Canyon, enhancing the line's capacity to handle larger ships and increasing its importance for freight and passenger transport.

Beach Road became Roosevelt Highway in Santa Monica in 1927. This change was part of a larger effort to develop the highway system along the California coast, and the Roosevelt Highway would later become known as the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). The railroad tracks along Santa Monica Beach were in use from 1891 until 1933.

It appears that the majority of beach shacks along Santa Monica's North Beach were removed with the laying of railroad tracks by Southern Pacific in 1892. No photos of these beach shacks have been found after 1892.

Historical Notes

Beach Road would later become Roosevelt Highway in 1927, and subsequently, Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). The land for Linda Vista Park was donated to the City of Santa Monica in 1892 by city founders John Percival Jones and Arcadia Bandini de Baker, marking the establishment of the first officially designated public open space in Santa Monica. In 1915, Linda Vista Park was renamed Palisades Park.

Historical Notes

The steps and bridge seen in the above photo are at the same location as the original '99 Steps" built in 1875. When the Pacific Coast Highway was built in 1927, new concrete steps and a bridge over the highway were built to allow for continued beach access.

Historical Notes

The Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary had arrived in Santa Monica in July 1899. They opened the Academy of the Holy Names on September 4 of that year in a small frame building on Fourth Street and Arizona. An intense fund-raising drive was launched immediately and a more substantial Academy building was erected in 1900 at Third and Arizona.**

Historical Notes

By 1899 there were two banks in the City of Santa Monica: Bank of Santa Monica located at Third Street and Oregon Avenue (now Santa Monica Blvd.) and Commercial Co's Bank at 219 Third Street. By the late 1920s there were thirteen financial institutions, including multiple branches.*

Historical Notes

The 1st Santa Monica Public Library was located at Third Street and Santa Monica Blvd. on the second floor of the Bank of Santa Monica.*

Historical Notes

The Los Angeles Pacific Railroad, started by Moses Sherman and Eli Clark (brother-in-law), had at its peak 180 miles of track in the western portions of Los Angeles County, from Pasadena, California to Santa Monica, running down the coast to Redondo Beach.*^

Historical Notes

Moses Sherman and Eli Clark introduced several innovations to trolley car operations in the L.A. area. One of the most popular was the scenic Balloon Route Trolley Trip, the most famous streetcar excursion in the West. Few tourists to Los Angeles missed riding the Balloon Route cars, so named because of the looped shape of the course trolleys would follow.

Historical Notes

The Balloon Route Trolley trip was the featured route of the Los Angeles Pacific, opened in September 1901. The line ran from downtown LA through Hollywood, Santa Monica, Venice Beach, Redondo Beach and back to L.A. via Culver City. The lines stopped at beach resorts and included free entrance to some en-route stops attractions along the way, including: Sunset Boulevard, studio of painter Paul de Longpré, bean fields of Morocco in Beverly Hills, Sawtelle Veterans Home and Old Soldiers' Home in Sawtelle, Long Wharf, Camera Obscura at Santa Monica, Playa del Rey Pavilion for a fish dinner, Redondo's Moonstone Beach, Venice, and Palms - Culver City.*^

Historical Notes

One of Santa Monica’s natural wonders was the Arch Rock.  It was so wide that during low tide, horse-drawn wagons could pass through its opening.  It was located on what is now Pacific Coast Highway just south of Topanga Cyn Blvd.

In the early 1890s, a primitive wagon road between Santa Monica and Malibu passed directly through the stony structure.*#*

Historical Notes

With improved access, the Arch Rock became a popular destination among excursion parties and day-trippers.*#*

Historical Notes

The old stage road to San Francisco (later Pacific Coast Highway) passed under the Arch Rock on Santa Monica Beach.* 

Historical Notes

For many nineteenth-century tourists, the Santa Monica Arch Rock was the place to see. It became the defining image of the Southern California coast.*#

Historical Notes

On the morning of March 24, 1906, the bridge that once spanned the arch's two columns was found crumbled on the ground. Initial reports blamed a rainstorm, but rumors later circulated that work crews constructing a railroad to Ventura had blasted the rock, performing their nefarious deed under the cover of darkness because of public affection for the landmark. In turns out that the railroad was never completed, but some of the grading work was later incorporated into the coast highway.*#*

Historical Notes

Today, Mastro's Ocean Club Restaurant (18412 E. Pacific Coast Hwy) is located where the picturesque Arch Rock once stood.*

Historical Notes

Less than a mile down the coast, Castle Rock survived Arch Rock by several decades. Rising some fifty feet from a sandy beach, the promontory also became a cherished local landmark. In some ways, it functioned as a replacement for Arch Rock, with tourists routinely picnicking on the beach nearby.*

Historical Notes

Picture-postcards romantically described Haystack Rock and the Family Group as the place "where the mountains meet the sea". *#*

Historical Notes

Roosevelt Highway was improved in 1929-30 and officially named Coast Highway at that time.  The Highway 1 designation came about in 1939*^

Historical Notes

Castle and Haystack Rocks appeared as a backdrop in numerous films, and in 1945 Marilyn Monroe posed in front of Castle Rock in one of her first photo shoots.*

Historical Notes

Castle Rock used to stand beside the Roosevelt Highway at the water's edge near the present-day location of the Getty Center Villa. Castle Rock was demolished in 1945 in order to expand the highway, renamed the Pacific Coast Highway.

Historical Notes

Castle Rock used to stand beside the Roosevelt Highway at the water's edge near the present-day location of the Getty Center Villa and Villa de Leone. Castle Rock was demolished in 1945 in order to expand the highway, renamed the Pacific Coast Highway (see next photo).

Historical Notes

Named after its original builder, Austrian native Leon Kauffman, the Villa Leon was the result of a longstanding promise Kauffman had made to his wife Clemence that, if he ever had the money, he would build for her a dream castle by the sea. A fortune made in the wool processing business in California during the First World War allowed Kauffman to make good on his promise and, after purchasing an impressive six-lot parcel above the famous Castle and Haystack Rock formations, Kauffman began construction of his $1,000,000 dream house in 1926.^

Historical Notes

Leon Kauffman selected architect Kenneth MacDonald in 1926 to design this 12,000-square-foot palazzo in the Beaux- Arts European tradition. This imposing structure features 35 rooms, including nine bedrooms, 11 bathrooms, a huge grand salon (32’ x 64’), a library, a circular dining room, a butler’s pantry, an elevator and a seven-car garage. The construction price of $1 million (that was a lot of money in the late ‘20s!) included a first-ever central vacuum, several hand-made crystal chandeliers, Italian tiles, imported marbles, hand-carved wooden beams, mahogany paneling from Thailand, magnificent wrought-iron gates, even gold grouting for the Italian tiles. The Villa de Leon took five years to complete.*

Historical Notes

Leon Kauffman purchased six elevated lots in the 1920s in the new Castellammare (Castle by the sea) area on the Malibu coast, North of Sunset Boulevard and high above what would soon become Roosevelt Highway, predecessor of the Pacific Coast Highway.*

Historical Notes

When first built, the Villa de Leon boasted topiary gardens, a pipe organ and beach access via a private funicular railway, very expensive amenities that have not survived the passage of time.

Historical Notes

The Kauffmans lived in the house for five years before Leon’s wife (Clemence) died, and Leon lived only another two years. Their grown son chose not to live in the house, which was overseen by caretakers until 1952, when the estate was settled.*

Historical Notes

Villa de Leon has been featured in countless productions over the years, most notably photo shoots.

Historical Notes

The mansion overlooks Pacific Coast Highway and the Pacific Ocean and is situated in close proximity to the Getty Villa. It was designed by prominent Los Angeles architect Kenneth A. MacDonald, Jr. in 1926 for Austrian builder and investor in wool Leon Kauffman.

Historical Notes

The Villa de Leon has been used in many high-profile music videos, commercials, and printed ads such as Beyonce's "Haunted," Lady Gaga's "Paparazzi," Britney Spears's My Prerogative body fragrance commercial, Camila Cabello "Liar", Ariana Grande, Miley Cyrus and Lana Del Rey "Don't Call Me Angel", Rod Stewart's Christmas special Rod Stewart: Merry Christmas, Baby, and shoots featuring Heidi Klum, Victoria Beckham, Robert Pattinson, and Reese Witherspoon. Its highly recognizable grand staircase has been a major focal point in several of these videos and photographs, as has its balconies and their balustrades, including their appearance on the cover of English rock band Procol Harum's 1973 album, Grand Hotel.*^

Historical Notes

Today, many first-time visitors to the adjacent J. Paul Getty Villa mistake the Italianate Revival palazzo, the Villa de Leon, for the Getty Villa museum, not visible from the Pacific Coast Highway. Even the New York Times and The Wall Street Journal have mis-identified Villa de Leon thinking it was the Getty Villa.

Historical Notes

The new Castellammare neighborhood became popular with the Hollywood crowd. John Barrymore, Thelma Todd and Joseph Cotton had homes in the area.

Historical Notes

For the 1932 Summer Olympics, the segment of the PCH between Oxnard and Santa Monica (then known as the Theodore Roosevelt Highway) hosted part of the road cycling events.

Historical Notes

Thelma Todd's Sidewalk Café was a notable Hollywood hotspot in the 1930s, located at 17575 Pacific Coast Highway in the Castellammare neighborhood of Pacific Palisades, California. The building and café have a rich history intertwined with Hollywood's Golden Age and a tragic mystery.

Historical Notes

The Spanish-style building that housed Thelma Todd's Sidewalk Café was originally constructed in 1928. It was designed by architect Mark Daniels in the California Mediterranean and Spanish Colonial Revival styles with Moorish influences. Initially, the structure served as a shopping center for the nearby Castellammare housing development.

Historical Notes

In the summer of 1934, Hollywood actress Thelma Todd and her lover/business partner, director Roland West, opened Thelma Todd's Sidewalk Café on the ground floor of the building. The café quickly became a popular destination for Hollywood's elite, known for its high-end seafood menu and glamorous atmosphere.

Historical Notes

Thelma Todd's Sidewalk Café was a stylish establishment featuring a ground-floor bar, a private upstairs dining area called Joya's Room, and a menu with specialty seafood dishes, including New England-style offerings. Known for its unique cocktails named after celebrities, like the Todd Gin Sour and Thelma Todd Rickey, the café attracted patrons in part due to Todd's frequent presence behind the counter, where she engaged with customers and promoted the business through interviews and photo opportunities. The building itself had a multi-level layout: the café occupied the ground floor, while the second floor housed Joya's Room, Todd’s apartment, and an adjoining apartment for her business partner, connected by a sliding door. A ballroom with a hexagonal shape and a bandstand occupied the third floor, providing an elegant space for events.

Historical Notes

On the morning of December 16, 1935, Thelma Todd was found dead in her car inside the garage of Jewel Carmen, a former actress and former wife of Todd's lover and business partner, Roland West. Carmen's house was approximately a block from the topmost side of Todd's restaurant. Her death was determined to have been caused by carbon monoxide poisoning. Todd had a wide circle of friends and associates as well as a busy social life; police investigations revealed that she had spent the previous Saturday night (December 14) at the Trocadero, a popular Hollywood restaurant, at a party hosted by entertainer Stanley Lupino and his actress daughter, Ida. At the restaurant, she had had a brief but unpleasant exchange with her ex-husband, Pat DiCicco. However, her friends stated that she was in good spirits, and were aware of nothing unusual in her life that could suggest a reason for committing suicide. She was driven home from the party in the early hours of December 15 by her chauffeur.

Historical Notes

The detectives of the LAPD concluded that Todd's death was accidental, the result of her either warming up the car to drive it or using the heater to keep herself warm; however, other evidence, such as a bloodied lip, seemed to point to foul play.

Historical Notes

Tractor trailer trucks first became widely used on American highways in the 1930s. This period marked a crucial turning point for the trucking industry, as these vehicles revolutionized long-distance haulage and transportation of goods.

Historical Notes

Over the decades, the building experienced periods of vacancy and various uses, including serving as a private residence and housing different businesses. Today, the Spanish Colonial Revival building has been renovated and is marketed as a creative office space called "Surfside" by Vibe Office Properties. Photo comparison by Trey Callaway.

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